tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33025239225590961422024-03-13T04:20:01.423-04:00The Cottage WorkshopThe Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.comBlogger35125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-50344189691728182742011-05-20T19:43:00.000-04:002011-05-20T19:43:26.443-04:00The dresser moulding and how I did it...<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5728750096/" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IMG_9387 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_9387" height="200" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5121/5728750096_a1c8d38eaa.jpg" width="132" /></a><br />
Attaching the moulding to the top of the dresser was something I've been looking forward to doing since I started. I knew that because of seasonal movement I would need to use a method other than just glueing all the pieces around the front and sides.<br />
The first method I learned was to glue the front few inches and then brad-nail the rest. Norm Abrams did this a lot in the New Yankee Workshop. I probably would have been fine with this until I read an <a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=5rY4UNXnT1cC&pg=PA123&lpg=PA123&dq=christian+becksvoort+moulding&source=bl&ots=D5sdSyqKwN&sig=AWp2rkOp_QIAezUAb-Mfhpqxp6s&hl=en&ei=WxdYTJOsNML-nAfo7421CQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=4&ved=0CB0Q6AEwAw#v=onepage&q&f=false">article by Christian Becksvoort</a> from Fine Woodworking's <u>Woodworking Techniques</u>. This looked like a very strong but elegant way to attach moulding to the side of my dresser. It also looked like it would be quite a challenge for me to accomplish.<br />
After finishing the moulding I felt that it was a little easier than I had predicted. Maybe I got lucky. I did take pictures of how I did it so I can share it with whoever is interested.<br />
<br />
First, I figured it would help to make sure the sides were pretty flat and square. I did as well as I could with my low angle jack, checking with my try square often.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5728746346/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IMG_9368 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_9368" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3278/5728746346_abae04d98e.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"> The front moulding was cake. Cut the miters and glue it to the front. </div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5728195887/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IMG_9370 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_9370" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5305/5728195887_608f4b0116.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> This was the difficult part. I cut a groove in the moulding with the table saw in two passes. It ended up being about 1/4" wide and 3/8" deep. I did the rest with a dovetail bit in the router table. To make the key I cut a piece of scrap the same width of the widest part of the dovetail. I don't work with calipers so I just got it as close as I could. Just make sure it's not too skinny. I ran that piece through the router table with the dovetail bit set at the same height on each side a little at a time until I could get a snug fit inside the length of moulding. I rubbed-on some paraffin wax to make it easier to slide on. While it was inside the moulding, I planed it flush with a block plane to make sure it wasn't too thick which would result in a gap between the moulding and the case side.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5728747954/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IMG_9380 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_9380" height="333" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3293/5728747954_3b711f579f.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> I cut the miter on the side moulding, checked the fit and adjusted it with my jack plane and shooting board. I slid the dovetail key inside and placed the assembly flush with the case top and held it there with a clamp, leaving enough of the key sticking out to secure to the case.</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5728746976/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IMG_9371 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_9371" height="333" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5090/5728746976_72af7da16d.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br />
Becksvoort uses wood screws to attach the keys to the case. I used cut nails because I've been wanting to use them for a while now and I just didn't have the right screws. Cut nails have amazing holding power and so I thought they should work just fine. Two important things to keep in mind when using cut nails are to predrill and orient the nail so that the flat of the nail runs parallel to the grain of the wood. Skipping either and you risk<br />
splitting your work.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5728747498/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IMG_9373 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_9373" height="333" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2224/5728747498_fabc3e70f5.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br />
After nailing each section I released the clamp and slid the moulding back and made sure it was flush with the top again. I did this until I had the entire key attached to the case.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5728197509/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IMG_9381 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_9381" height="291" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3395/5728197509_893a1f2aa8.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br />
I used a pull saw to divide the key into sections. These should float underneath the moulding as the case moves with changes in humidity. In hindsight, I should have placed the nails a bit closer in each section to allow more movement but time will tell.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5728748532/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IMG_9383 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_9383" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5202/5728748532_dc302fb77d.jpg" /></a></div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">With a tight fit (thankfully) I tapped the moulding on with a mallet.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5728198329/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IMG_9384 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_9384" height="333" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2146/5728198329_16acda230a.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">I stopped a few inches short to apply glue to the miter and case side.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5728198657/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IMG_9385 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_9385" height="333" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5061/5728198657_1a5dca8699.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br />
<div style="text-align: center;">Carefully, I drove it home, tapping just enough to close the miter and squeeze out glue. Tapping too much would separate the moulding from the front of the case.</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5728198939/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IMG_9386 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_9386" height="257" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5088/5728198939_e355bf2d20.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br />
Construction of the case is now complete. Now I can concentrate on finding walnut boards for the drawer fronts, deciding what to use for the drawer sides and bottoms, and how to put it all together. Right now I'm pretty set on traditional construction: solid wood panel bottoms and half-blind dovetailed drawer fronts. Hopefully, I can have progress to post on in the coming weeks.<br />
<br />
<b><i>-RM</i></b><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5728750096/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IMG_9387 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_9387" height="640" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5121/5728750096_a1c8d38eaa.jpg" width="426" /></a></div>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-16176581749519264522011-05-19T07:46:00.001-04:002011-05-20T19:43:55.774-04:00More work on the dresser...<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5126350425/" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IMG_8072 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_8072" height="200" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4088/5126350425_5d99fb7424_m.jpg" width="131" /></a><br />
Yes, it's the same walnut dresser I started over a year and a half ago. Over the last month I've finished the base and the moulding around the top. I'm not sure where time goes but it definitely doesn't stop.<br />
The base of the dresser was made by dovetailing the front to the two sides. I attached a 2" top to the base mitered at the corners for the carcass to sit on.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5126350979/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IMG_8074 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_8074" height="265" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1199/5126350979_7b4e2ee26a.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5126353965/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IMG_8093 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_8093" height="266" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1133/5126353965_e31a51ae33.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> After I assembled the base, cut the curves to form the feet. I cut and formed the front with hand tools. I used a coping saw to cut the curves and my Japanese rip saw for the straight section in between. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5732330776/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IMG_9122 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_9122" height="500" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3291/5732330776_e53b48a75f.jpg" width="333" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> Of course this leaves a rather rough surface to smooth-out and bring to the line. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5731785145/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IMG_9124 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_9124" height="266" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3227/5731785145_6050da60a0.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> I used a block plane for the straight area and a wood contour plane for the curves.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5731785563/" title="IMG_9128 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_9128" height="266" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2693/5731785563_e9326b0385.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> This is all good practice and it was nice to use my Muji' contour plane but since I needed to speed things along I went to the barn and fetched my electric jigsaw. I almost forgot how much I love this thing. It cuts crazy good, stays on the line and the Bosch finish blades leave a nice finished surface.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5736125607/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IMG_9274 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_9274" height="640" src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3022/5736125607_e85114ca99.jpg" width="425" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5736125775/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IMG_9275 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_9275" height="281" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2096/5736125775_37dd79ff6a.jpg" width="500" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: center;"> I had originally planned on keeping this simple curve for the design of the base but I saw a dresser somewhere that had an extra detail I wanted to include in mine.</div></div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div></div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/5736125977/" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="IMG_9278 by Richard Magbanua, on Flickr"><img alt="IMG_9278" height="281" src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5027/5736125977_5f59aace9b.jpg" width="500" /></a></div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">It's a subtle detail but I think it gives it a more refined look.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> The next part of the dresser to tackle is moulding for the top. Attaching the moulding to the front is cake but since the carcass is solid wood I can't do the same for the sides. Since solid wood expands and contracts primarily perpendicular to the direction of the grain, glueing another piece over a few inches across its grain can restrict this movement to the point that it would eventually crack. I've been studying a method for attaching side moulding used by Christian Becksvoort. It works great I'm sure, but it looks difficult to pull-off. I could also attach it by glueing the front few inches and use brad nails, which supposedly bend with seasonal movement, for the rest of the length but that would both be too easy and too fast... the absolute opposite of this project.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i><b>-RM</b></i></div>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-16240492481893329962010-08-03T09:26:00.002-04:002010-08-03T09:27:48.029-04:00"Back" in the Cottage<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7E5dH7PJ4rGcrSN3bJXikR4YvLoy19BZG4S-j1C8VFwzI1Z_0vhNmQtmZoHi75fyQ_fXDpm5rgAIqD7ya_DsQ-vMcxDyHsUequqNCWKR5gENlPE-etDh-8LZsu9VLPTuhwizBMzCWUKxw/s1600/Ryan's+Dresser++-+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7E5dH7PJ4rGcrSN3bJXikR4YvLoy19BZG4S-j1C8VFwzI1Z_0vhNmQtmZoHi75fyQ_fXDpm5rgAIqD7ya_DsQ-vMcxDyHsUequqNCWKR5gENlPE-etDh-8LZsu9VLPTuhwizBMzCWUKxw/s400/Ryan's+Dresser++-+7.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> It's been a busy summer this year and I haven't had much time to devote to woodworking. But I can't say that I'm really sorry about that. We've had a summer full of vacations, concerts, cookouts and just great times with my family. On a personal note, I've been working really hard to improve my physical fitness this year; I've dropped almost twenty pounds since January. Shawn and I ran our first <a href="http://www.500festival.com/">half-marathon</a> in seven years, I finished the <a href="http://www.beachbody.com/product/fitness_programs/best_sellers/insanity.do?tnt=INS_SHAKE_B1&code=SEMB_VM_SAN_01&kid=GOG0039961351">Insanity</a> workout program, I started mountain biking again after ten years and completed my very first <a href="http://www.tuxbro.com/entry-info/tri-indy/tri-indy-entry-info.html">Sprint Triathlon</a> for my 38th birthday last Sunday on August 1st. I feel great. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> During this time, however, the six-drawer dresser lay here in the cottage patiently awaiting attention. After reacquainting myself with the game plan and remembering which parts go where I took a deep breath and glued up the drawer supports and dividers. Not too bad. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Next up was the back. I decided to make a frame and panel back as opposed to shiplapped mostly because I thought it might be a bit quicker and would save a bit on the weight. The joinery for the back panel was just simple stub tenons into grooves cut for the panels.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqzqDBtjhu-pgG9GOTAWiAkCpYZ-8arh-VfkqPI0fxdIZy0sTVeS9hFsPCzJ3zrgy43f3vN7WSuVItYQOR1VcVO1fVmEuYpThQ52SK1S_Yhvl9lu7dsz1EUztz28mwtXHsH3kpzXC877C3/s1600/Ryan's+Dresser++-+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="391" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqzqDBtjhu-pgG9GOTAWiAkCpYZ-8arh-VfkqPI0fxdIZy0sTVeS9hFsPCzJ3zrgy43f3vN7WSuVItYQOR1VcVO1fVmEuYpThQ52SK1S_Yhvl9lu7dsz1EUztz28mwtXHsH3kpzXC877C3/s400/Ryan's+Dresser++-+1.jpg" width="400" /></a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> So now I've got what's looking more and more like a dresser. In the coming weeks I will be working on the base, the moulding, six dressers and some type of finish. I'm really looking forward to the moulding because I want to use a<a href="http://books.google.com/books?id=5rY4UNXnT1cC&pg=PA123&lpg=PA123&dq=christian+becksvoort+moulding&source=bl&ots=D5sdSyqKwN&sig=AWp2rkOp_QIAezUAb-Mfhpqxp6s&hl=en&ei=WxdYTJOsNML-nAfo7421CQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=4&ved=0CB0Q6AEwAw#v=onepage&q&f=false"> method discussed by Christian Becksvoort.</a> It looks challenging so I hope I can pull it off.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i><b>-RM</b></i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-91704238279938845962010-03-04T12:27:00.006-05:002010-03-04T12:32:25.256-05:00Sharpening Setup Jig<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2694/4405016428_a91f763f1b_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="157" kt="true" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2694/4405016428_a91f763f1b_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"></div> I had a couple hours to work in the cottage so I thought I would spend it making an angle jig to make it easier to sharpen my blades nd chisels. No, I'm not very good with free-handing on the stones yet, but maybe someday I will be. I've been wanting to make one like this since I saw<a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2134/3537782596_78fd81ef69_b.jpg"> Angie Kopacek</a> use one at a Lie-Nielsen show in Cincinnati a while back. I think it beats using a protractor-type angle finder because it seems faster and easier to set the same angle on your honing guide every time. <br />
So here's how I made mine: <br />
<div style="text-align: center;">I found some decent particle board shelving with a laminate veneer in the trash pile. Then I cut a few pieces of maple for the angle stops. <br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/4405015386_3553bdccbd_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" kt="true" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4065/4405015386_3553bdccbd_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I set the distance of each one I put a blade in the honing jig and set it for the angle using my angle finder. This is how I normally set blades up for sharpening.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/4404252955_972807673c_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" kt="true" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/4404252955_972807673c_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">After I tighten the blade in the jig, I set it on the board with the jig against the edge and a maple block against the edge of the blade. </div><div align="left" class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2778/4404253221_04b9d0573e_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="262" kt="true" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2778/4404253221_04b9d0573e_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I could have nailed or screw down the stop blocks at this point but it probably would have moved on me so I just held them there while I put on some "crazy glue" around the edges. After this sets up I'll be able to put-in some nails without anything moving around.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4405016190_7370e0e680_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="273" kt="true" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4405016190_7370e0e680_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I settled on just a few angles for now. I figure 25, 30 and 38 degree stops should be a good place to start. The important one for me was the 38 degree stop. I've been needing to put a steeper angle on the smoothing blade for my low-angle jack </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">to help out with the wild grain in all this walnut. I did intend on making a 35 degree stop but it semed too close to 38 degrees to make much difference.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4060/4404253977_658c54b1de_b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="261" kt="true" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4060/4404253977_658c54b1de_b.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Well, it's nice to finish something finally. Hopefully this will help to keep the blades sharp. I am planning on purchasing another bench stone soon and I think I have decided on the Spyderco brand of stones. So far I'm sold on the notion of not having to flatten as often (supposedly if hardly ever), not having to soak them and only having to use vey little water. If I can get one I'll be sure to post about it. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><strong><em>-RM</em></strong></div>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-54140661656177260512010-03-01T16:45:00.001-05:002010-03-01T16:46:45.261-05:00Wonderful video... I got the link to this video from a Twitter "tweet" by <a href="http://thewoodwhisperer.com/">Mark Spagnuolo</a>, aka the Wood Whisperer. I really loved it and wanted to share it with you. I can already smell the fresh-sawn pine in the barn on a sunny summer afternoon. Enjoy!<br />
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<embed src="http://blip.tv/play/oF6ByIpeAg" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="400" height="299" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true"></embed><br />
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<b><i>-RM</i></b>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-76310950244281044722010-03-01T16:23:00.000-05:002010-03-01T16:23:11.014-05:00Back in the Cottage!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i>Forgive me blog readers, for I have lapsed. It's been... ahem... two months since my last post.</i></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/4398552715_b615c12cb0_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4061/4398552715_b615c12cb0_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> January and February run a bit busy around here but I found a way to get back in the workshop last weekend for the first time in a couple months. I was cleaning up the house and getting ready for my son's ninth birthday party when I realized the cutting boards needed to be resurfaced. "What a shame", I thought, "to have a nice, clean house but such shabby cutting boards". Actually, I thought it was an excuse to take a break. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> After clearing all the dust and cutoffs from the top of the bench I secured the planing stop to my right and placed a cutting board up to it to allow me to plane across the grain. When I made these cutting boards a year or so ago I didn't pay much attention to the direction of the grain. This wasn't too much of a concern at the time because I finished them with a random orbital sander, although I did get a little tear-out with the electric planer. This of course plays hell with the hand planes.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> If you're concerned about tear-out when hand planing wood it really helps to apply alcohol or, with cutting boards, mineral oil. Besides, it's good for the hands. And I'd imagine it helps to keep the planes from rusting. But probably the most helpful with preventing tear-out today was using a hand planing method called traversing. This is when you plane at a right angle to the grain of the wood. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2760/4398552089_ffe52fc1cc_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2760/4398552089_ffe52fc1cc_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Using my no. 3 (Stanley with Hock irons), I traversed the walnut, cherry and maple laminations resulting in a much improved surface and showing a very slight scallop, compliments of a cambered plane blade. I also made some diagonal passes. I did try to plane in the direction of the grain for some finishing passes but that only resulted in more tear-out. So, more traversing.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4047/4398552413_51dc5b0eec_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4047/4398552413_51dc5b0eec_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;"> While traversing results in a much better surface than one with a lot of tear-out I wanted to even things out a bit more. So, I pulled out my cabinet scraper and made a few passes. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4071/4399321208_068c7977b4_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="215" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4071/4399321208_068c7977b4_o.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> After the scraping I took the boards back into the house and slathered-on the mineral oil. Just like new. Try that with a plastic or glass cutting board! </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> The birthday party went well. And even though none of the cutting boards were used, or even seen for that matter, I'm convinced it was time well wasted.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><i>-RM</i></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> </div>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-49019621519469711982009-12-28T15:32:00.001-05:002009-12-28T15:37:41.195-05:00Christmas Gifts for the Workshop<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUacw8-regt3cxhsrchQJIii02yx6eusb9RgvsJALrbR3KWYqBJ6MeZ_4JSolycpo2enyal3TNDJlF273vxMK_SUBNh7ISMH-NNpFgo6tZnfoJdOVTSNSc_6Zs8oEKK0gOq861CgT0htqp/s1600-h/Cottage+Sign1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUacw8-regt3cxhsrchQJIii02yx6eusb9RgvsJALrbR3KWYqBJ6MeZ_4JSolycpo2enyal3TNDJlF273vxMK_SUBNh7ISMH-NNpFgo6tZnfoJdOVTSNSc_6Zs8oEKK0gOq861CgT0htqp/s400/Cottage+Sign1.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> I hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas. I had a great one this year blessed with lots of gifts, parties, family and food. Judging by the gifts I must have been a good boy this year.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> I got two books. <i>The Workshop </i>by Scott Gibson is a very inspiring book full of pictures of woodworking shops and studios. The other book is the one which was probably on most hand-tool user's wish list -<i>The Joiner and Cabinet Maker </i>by Schwarz and Moskowitz as well as the original anonymous author.<br />
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</div><div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSSvU6Un99PLBXvCpEflBeGIBtO6OZRHdGYVyZVMk7CV3UAF24m4-eNIdfFngDL3K9gNDhGOtWGMB3NjgUC4TuufUO_gmZ-kU0geS598xrN6g3ry2vUTl4ynWRfczZNW16YTZvJfUxpOB0/s1600-h/Workshop+Christmas+gifts+-+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSSvU6Un99PLBXvCpEflBeGIBtO6OZRHdGYVyZVMk7CV3UAF24m4-eNIdfFngDL3K9gNDhGOtWGMB3NjgUC4TuufUO_gmZ-kU0geS598xrN6g3ry2vUTl4ynWRfczZNW16YTZvJfUxpOB0/s400/Workshop+Christmas+gifts+-+3.jpg" /></a><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;"> The Joiner and the Cabinetmaker is a story about a young apprentice in a rural English woodworking shop in he early 1800's. Within this story he builds three different projects using the tools and techniques of his time, all of which is explained and detailed by Christopher Schwarz and Joel Moskowitz. The book includes a CD with narrated slide show by Schwarz (excellent from what I've been able to see so far) as well as SketchUp files of each project so that you can use Google SketchUp (a free downloadable application) to look at them in 3-D or take them apart as you wish. The readers are encouraged to build along with the instructions which is what I'm thinking about doing. I've still got my dresser project on my plate, but I may have to squeeze-in another.<br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;"> The other workshop-related items I got as gifts were the two mini-sized offerings from Lee Valley tools. I came upon the pocket marking gauge and the miniature shoulder plane the day they were announced and just had to have them.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs0JVxYXCtkRtgBMVvgTe_kB-lLrD5Xejct5bjtcfudHZQ9oZJGryfBSVsnlwiXyAHwcFRb75KXTqR9q5HbwZzE_BsT-ybYkSfXlbAydenQX86YRgTwRvflgmUpP6YC0xIY56Sj0M1odn-/s1600-h/Workshop+Christmas+gifts+-+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs0JVxYXCtkRtgBMVvgTe_kB-lLrD5Xejct5bjtcfudHZQ9oZJGryfBSVsnlwiXyAHwcFRb75KXTqR9q5HbwZzE_BsT-ybYkSfXlbAydenQX86YRgTwRvflgmUpP6YC0xIY56Sj0M1odn-/s400/Workshop+Christmas+gifts+-+4.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> The pocket gauge is pretty cool. It has an adjustable marking head on both ends which gives you the ability to keep two different measurements set during a project. It's fairly easy to set one-handed and the cutting wheel will recess into the fence to keep it safe after use.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> The Veritas miniature shoulder plane is just neat. It's really small but well made. I actually works pretty well but even if it didn't it would serve just fine as a conversation piece on a shelf, displayed as decoration or jewelry on a chain. I honed the blade and then used it to make a 1/4" dado in some scrap poplar. Not too bad...<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgm7p1A5DJk7M76bLyQAptfVxb83lRw2TyMQRhCPzzXaxOaIBkHt28OQM-PWsFHABGnCSeXpn09cFzeH4m4o6WDWf8Xr-49Wc04_5i_hz1f-Vo5invZ1ULPtNAonq-ylA6AwQdtKhuItLT/s1600-h/Workshop+Christmas+gifts+-+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjgm7p1A5DJk7M76bLyQAptfVxb83lRw2TyMQRhCPzzXaxOaIBkHt28OQM-PWsFHABGnCSeXpn09cFzeH4m4o6WDWf8Xr-49Wc04_5i_hz1f-Vo5invZ1ULPtNAonq-ylA6AwQdtKhuItLT/s400/Workshop+Christmas+gifts+-+7.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I scored the width of the dado with a square and a marking knife, then clamped a straight-edge to one side to guide the shoulder plane. After every third pass or so I scored the sides again with the knife.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNJFFKic_w7KyUop-H67hrbQ30n0neejkWhe49iIz0bgSdG4X_VP-H0189rP536Yk3XCseQ0hWpn1bSvAnrHVE1uKyeDgUE_wMUBt5YFh_Qy4BMMNipIAm2MaKYGR8CGHqVwKophoQPpw-/s1600-h/Workshop+Christmas+gifts+-+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNJFFKic_w7KyUop-H67hrbQ30n0neejkWhe49iIz0bgSdG4X_VP-H0189rP536Yk3XCseQ0hWpn1bSvAnrHVE1uKyeDgUE_wMUBt5YFh_Qy4BMMNipIAm2MaKYGR8CGHqVwKophoQPpw-/s400/Workshop+Christmas+gifts+-+6.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Ultimately, I'm not sure this would be used often but it's nice to know that it <i>could</i> be used. It came in a nice black case which is where I'll keep it until that time comes.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> My favorite gift, of course, was the new sign for the Cottage Workshop. Here it is...<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxDUzwO8j5mW4VOHvySD04olGCzCS3czVBW2YpPMXlFNNU5c1Dp2JPco8-szD-ZelgtyZ1meuVLvVb6VPdzx1xB7OnPO6oKzkGGze1gNNspS69OmiuYf1ivRTdUX6yNRQfAdu-RLnPTldX/s1600-h/Workshop+Christmas+gifts+-+9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxDUzwO8j5mW4VOHvySD04olGCzCS3czVBW2YpPMXlFNNU5c1Dp2JPco8-szD-ZelgtyZ1meuVLvVb6VPdzx1xB7OnPO6oKzkGGze1gNNspS69OmiuYf1ivRTdUX6yNRQfAdu-RLnPTldX/s400/Workshop+Christmas+gifts+-+9.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> I hope you all had a merry Christmas and, if I don't blog until then,<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">HAVE A HAPPY NEW YEAR!<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b><i>-RM</i></b><br />
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</div>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-13593581215889847412009-12-15T11:06:00.001-05:002009-12-15T11:09:37.422-05:00Mortising by hand: not as hard as I thought...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn9rPVzKUtBaitD9mzvgfZkpuaJWXk1m-ZMM-12K1KBIBGxYkJXlkN_8YAyRdeYBdtfsaHC383oiTErt_GZJlStHtJ7nnXFQlAJhX_awYUKKRyV-t1aM_FhCR-TIboBInX4QN1fsamIUNP/s1600-h/IMG_6031+b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn9rPVzKUtBaitD9mzvgfZkpuaJWXk1m-ZMM-12K1KBIBGxYkJXlkN_8YAyRdeYBdtfsaHC383oiTErt_GZJlStHtJ7nnXFQlAJhX_awYUKKRyV-t1aM_FhCR-TIboBInX4QN1fsamIUNP/s400/IMG_6031+b.jpg" /></a><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div> Moving onward, I come to yet another opportunity to connect with the Luddites of the past. I need to create twelve mortises in the drawer dividers to house the drawer supports. It's December in Indiana and it's cold. Sure, it could be in the 60's tomorrow followed by a blizzard but for now, I'm not going to spend any time working in the barn if I don't have to. I have all I need in the warm cottage: a mallet, marking gauge, clamps and a 1/4" mortise chisel.<br />
As usual, I've scoured the internet to learn what I could about mortising by hand. Of all that I found I found these videos the most helpful. Both are of <a href="http://frankklausz.com/homepage.html">Frank Klausz</a>, a master cabinetmaker originally from Hungary. He really seems to be a great teacher so I must plan on obtaining some of his videos.<br />
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This one is from FineWoodworking.com. It even shows how he allows for a haunched tenon...<br />
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<a href="http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=26994">http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=26994</a><br />
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This one is from a <a href="http://www.woodworkinginamerica.com/GeneralMenu/">Woodworking in America</a> demonstration and is just cool. You can see everything that happens under the surface when you chop a mortise. You can even hear Roy Underhill talking in the background! The fact the Mr. Klausz completes the mortise without breaking the glass makes this not only a woodworking demo but a pretty good magic trick.<br />
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<embed allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="349" src="http://blip.tv/play/gcoz4Y4kAg" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="480"></embed> <br />
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I did read a post from <a href="http://tomfidgen.blogspot.com/2009/12/dedicated-sharpening-bench-part-5.html">Tom Fidgen</a> about mortising just recently. He's working on a sharpening station for his workshop.<br />
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Well, here's how I did...<br />
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First, I set my mortising gauge to the width of my chisel.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivK_ATQTygFSUwLyW9KW6ou_8mZ4SQb3J2IavZ5g6loDwqx-UCcsl9R9Y6JYOXJvDFpMAUozj1JMZS4bX_J5B5DU6k3wywSbYJSuHJLFLo-FuscIk8Cv75Iu7FRDDAZjab6O6xyvCgEg97/s1600-h/IMG_6027.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivK_ATQTygFSUwLyW9KW6ou_8mZ4SQb3J2IavZ5g6loDwqx-UCcsl9R9Y6JYOXJvDFpMAUozj1JMZS4bX_J5B5DU6k3wywSbYJSuHJLFLo-FuscIk8Cv75Iu7FRDDAZjab6O6xyvCgEg97/s400/IMG_6027.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> After centering the gauge on the back of the drawer divider I marked the areas for the mortises including their lengths. I'm sure there are many ways to clamp a piece like this but this is how I did it...<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-3Bl4LNrkc4818hcJsda7b1C3AjxTZZDJsomPyAFiRdDQ3D5tqTkXfdstdQiWcz_fhrP4t1rGOTs0tiG2tiHxyXC80OxFKjbqduY7nACjE3uEkm3hyJBcsbTemkLtbwcbpw25rZxaPvCT/s1600-h/IMG_6025.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-3Bl4LNrkc4818hcJsda7b1C3AjxTZZDJsomPyAFiRdDQ3D5tqTkXfdstdQiWcz_fhrP4t1rGOTs0tiG2tiHxyXC80OxFKjbqduY7nACjE3uEkm3hyJBcsbTemkLtbwcbpw25rZxaPvCT/s400/IMG_6025.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Using a hand screw with a holdfast was very adequate and I was able to clamp pieces into position very quickly.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> The chisel is positioned between the lines and held square to the sides of the piece. This is easier to do when you position yourself like I am here. I followed the same chopping sequence performed by Frank Klausz in the video and took care to make a shallow initial pass first to define the mortise. Be sure to leave the ends alone until you're almost done. After that I whacked the heck out of it until I reached my depth of 3/4" to 1". I finished by defining the ends of the mortise, making sure they were square to the edge.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg29or7LK2Xs-bNgzbc3N3qCF9gGkPJUd933G0IM0kDNnGiZDDfVoXXymZDRb6u5ga8KU3iyQ9B1sTT-2ux1mIkadrmunq9G47jTHsv-GBdLnpwEgQoRvhPMdg_jDhMj70aQizhjmY4L4r8/s1600-h/IMG_6031.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg29or7LK2Xs-bNgzbc3N3qCF9gGkPJUd933G0IM0kDNnGiZDDfVoXXymZDRb6u5ga8KU3iyQ9B1sTT-2ux1mIkadrmunq9G47jTHsv-GBdLnpwEgQoRvhPMdg_jDhMj70aQizhjmY4L4r8/s400/IMG_6031.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Making one mortise took about 3 to 5 minutes. This is just a bit longer than it would have taken using my mortiser. Not too bad. My experience with this is consistent with my other findings. With sharp tools and the right techniques working by hand is much easier and faster than you think. It's definitely warmer.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><i>-RM</i></b><br />
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</div>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-36279303315910961122009-12-04T22:13:00.003-05:002009-12-04T22:17:11.874-05:00What Mistake?<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyVa3sYyhWjrqCLtoxoW-J9kr0KUAJ8lJGxBAdHdVhCyk8YlfwhGePCQnVtd-X91HxGTJpSyUMWRvJhXwIq0SQagcG_5t8qNOUtC2K5emvr5cDxmExRuTY3WsY9tId4ghvwhszvYQzd6An/s1600-h/Divider+mistake+-+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyVa3sYyhWjrqCLtoxoW-J9kr0KUAJ8lJGxBAdHdVhCyk8YlfwhGePCQnVtd-X91HxGTJpSyUMWRvJhXwIq0SQagcG_5t8qNOUtC2K5emvr5cDxmExRuTY3WsY9tId4ghvwhszvYQzd6An/s400/Divider+mistake+-+1.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyVa3sYyhWjrqCLtoxoW-J9kr0KUAJ8lJGxBAdHdVhCyk8YlfwhGePCQnVtd-X91HxGTJpSyUMWRvJhXwIq0SQagcG_5t8qNOUtC2K5emvr5cDxmExRuTY3WsY9tId4ghvwhszvYQzd6An/s1600-h/Divider+mistake+-+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">So here I am, on a roll and ready to breeze through some more stopped sliding dovetails. I've got the process down pat and looking forward to the challenge of hand cut mortises. I finish two of them rather quickly and sit back feeling good about what I've done. Wait... that doesn't look right. I laid out one of the dovetails in the wrong place. Yup, the ones for the front of the case. I'm an idiot.</span><br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> After cursing under my breath (Ryan was playing trains in the cottage next to me) I try to figure out how I was going to recover from such a stupid mistake. My first thought was to leave it and move the rear drawer divider up to match. Doing that wouldn't require a patch that may be seen, even if I would be the only one who would notice. It would, however, change the drawer sizes which would be kinda lame since I made an effort to design them to be graduated in size.</span><br />
</div><div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> </span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;">In the end I decided to stay with my design and patch it. I was skeptical at first, but I decided I could find a reasonable match to make it happen. As a result, I think it works and I have something new to blog about. Here is what I did...</span><br />
</div></div><div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br />
</span><br />
</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> I used the same cutting guide to make a few pieces to fit in the errant dovetail socket. I'm getting better at being creative with the clamps.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxB8blMjiyq_pbXN66W9wZrd-ZVcXJxhvyAkKL14qNMlpe1Ziz-rCQsyBu60m5kihy_93M3B1O3udXIWkHuRnbsoFQIbgwNRvY8a9Gj_gN3dv8ZNgKevM42_3T6cJiVVDGXgS_XHmN_QDG/s1600-h/Divider+mistake+-+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxB8blMjiyq_pbXN66W9wZrd-ZVcXJxhvyAkKL14qNMlpe1Ziz-rCQsyBu60m5kihy_93M3B1O3udXIWkHuRnbsoFQIbgwNRvY8a9Gj_gN3dv8ZNgKevM42_3T6cJiVVDGXgS_XHmN_QDG/s400/Divider+mistake+-+2.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> I glued all three in the socket, leaving the best fitting piece for last. The result looked a bit rough but I was optimistic.</span><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyybYe2YAeUU1LZhzdDBh8zZjQLfCp_a25ES0cuUIMWATa_3Vy-i8CixKWoiWa-WVccZgmJuGOG4VdWjwU7dpTdR2lopUFmtvU1CuT18RFNDWMkLjjkLmnCaUZIPdZTETMzyzOYFR3FOVE/s1600-h/Divider+mistake+-+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyybYe2YAeUU1LZhzdDBh8zZjQLfCp_a25ES0cuUIMWATa_3Vy-i8CixKWoiWa-WVccZgmJuGOG4VdWjwU7dpTdR2lopUFmtvU1CuT18RFNDWMkLjjkLmnCaUZIPdZTETMzyzOYFR3FOVE/s400/Divider+mistake+-+3.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> A little work with the block plane...</span><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOBy6W9mQ629QqXrC2OYWSoHLAV7qUjMfGiUi5he69TyoDKwCHX0L_jubpluaEnUVGt8a7El2PJ6NvYCSC2ehCo7MXV2PV8fnSlulh3_nfPmb-XWfCXdkkGapyy6CLgv3RtotT1VrHiQWS/s1600-h/Divider+mistake+-+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOBy6W9mQ629QqXrC2OYWSoHLAV7qUjMfGiUi5he69TyoDKwCHX0L_jubpluaEnUVGt8a7El2PJ6NvYCSC2ehCo7MXV2PV8fnSlulh3_nfPmb-XWfCXdkkGapyy6CLgv3RtotT1VrHiQWS/s400/Divider+mistake+-+4.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> ...and a scraper...</span><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1i-9ZZwRjM9CB71sC0r8ZkW0knWkUAzsTQcTT8kbBeJriDXXRQ9xyTVr8RSv73OOGqcMqoLl159aw8hg4q3BejH2aDiF_Xw3Y0wR2PKH9pb_a606TZSFQR0u89LnplR_21mJhyphenhyphenJDJLU7o/s1600-h/Divider+mistake+-+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1i-9ZZwRjM9CB71sC0r8ZkW0knWkUAzsTQcTT8kbBeJriDXXRQ9xyTVr8RSv73OOGqcMqoLl159aw8hg4q3BejH2aDiF_Xw3Y0wR2PKH9pb_a606TZSFQR0u89LnplR_21mJhyphenhyphenJDJLU7o/s400/Divider+mistake+-+5.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> ...crisis avoided. Now, I just have to find some way to keep from cutting another dovetail socket in the same place!<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN8J3vd3BJR6cpZkvPeIwfI-xPrhBsaU6s61YbS8SCPP6qRb5mmBeFGuCyqTNhbuxiNdeKLN4UJKn5NsrM7x0f1PUKKNPiUdXa9YV0JuqhUghnEYB_Xk4OTVAExGPPq7jPkMYiItQppeXC/s1600-h/Divider+mistake+-+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhN8J3vd3BJR6cpZkvPeIwfI-xPrhBsaU6s61YbS8SCPP6qRb5mmBeFGuCyqTNhbuxiNdeKLN4UJKn5NsrM7x0f1PUKKNPiUdXa9YV0JuqhUghnEYB_Xk4OTVAExGPPq7jPkMYiItQppeXC/s400/Divider+mistake+-+6.jpg" /></a><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><br />
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</div><div><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"> So there you go. I screwed something up, but instead of changing the design I decided to fix it and move on. Design proportions taking a priority? Maybe <a href="http://georgewalkerdesign.wordpress.com/">George Wilson</a> is getting to me after all.</span><br />
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</span><br />
</div><div><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><b><i>-RM</i></b></span><br />
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</div>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-75712938136824200222009-12-02T00:04:00.001-05:002009-12-02T00:05:55.590-05:00Stopped, sliding dovetails... by hand.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzSeciLRt-RLkdEwYzxL2DMr9eXtr9GTxf1nJOwe3AAj9unONXzPnxBzfRmVFKxh-PLa0ws6RCZjw3gsBn4dORGpKcALtqeDdJMR6vxzFy2kvyyGrkZVpV9yGu0nvtbwaEly5Z1g_pkD_k/s1600-h/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+19.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzSeciLRt-RLkdEwYzxL2DMr9eXtr9GTxf1nJOwe3AAj9unONXzPnxBzfRmVFKxh-PLa0ws6RCZjw3gsBn4dORGpKcALtqeDdJMR6vxzFy2kvyyGrkZVpV9yGu0nvtbwaEly5Z1g_pkD_k/s400/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+19.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Times;"><span style="font-family: Helvetica;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> </span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> </span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">While there is a virtual smorgasbord of information on through dovetails by hand, there isn't much on sliding or stopped sliding dovetails by hand. I did find an excellent tutorial on</span><a href="http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/SlidingDovetailsbyhand1.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> sliding dovetails by Derek Cohen</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">, a woodworker in Australia. There's also one by </span><a href="http://villagecarpenter.blogspot.com/2008/07/sliding-dovetails.html"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">Kari Hultman</span></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> (is it my imagination or do I seem to mention her in almost every post?). Actually, I'm not even sure of the correct name for this joint. I've read about people calling it a housed dovetail, half blind dovetail, a dovetail dado, and a grooved dovetail dado just to name a few. For now I'll just refer to it as a </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">stopped sliding dovetail</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">, kinda like a </span><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">stopped dado</span></i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">. Anyways, while similar to the sliding dovetail, it seems to be a different animal when you think about creating one. You can't just saw an angled kerf through to the other side. It's stopped to the width of the piece being housed in it. Most sensible woodworkers just use a router with a dovetail bit and a jig. Some woodworkers prefer to rout out most of the waste with a straight bit and then finish up with the dovetail bit. It's routed out to length and then squared up with a chisel if you wish. Since I didn't find exactly what I was looking for, and since I've never been fond of electric routers, I decided to accept a challenge to figuring out my own way. After a lot of daydreaming and tinkering in the cottage, I came up with a process that works for me.</span></span></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> The first thing I did was to make 2 guide blocks for sawing, beveled to the angle of my dovetails. I made two because I wanted to put a fence on them to make for a quicker setup. Not only could they be placed without a square, since the fence was a continuation of the angle I could easily see where the guided cut would end which takes out a lot of guesswork and layout time. I also made another guide block with the same bevel to serve as a paring guide for the drawer support pieces.</span></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrIyynNGB7IVmTY3KJhkshC1EH0BHKBwm9tsrag3tjUkakQHHO2rMGTpWty0iUxiwfHqvZqIOBrVYkXV005bHt_YcIsdOyMabNc-LFHGDMnTm-ZfAG56E2vOj7mcYOtMgIHCYmVvlQ5fOI/s1600-h/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrIyynNGB7IVmTY3KJhkshC1EH0BHKBwm9tsrag3tjUkakQHHO2rMGTpWty0iUxiwfHqvZqIOBrVYkXV005bHt_YcIsdOyMabNc-LFHGDMnTm-ZfAG56E2vOj7mcYOtMgIHCYmVvlQ5fOI/s400/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+05.jpg" /></span></a><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> Since the guide blocks take care of my angles I only need to layout and mark the location and thickness of the drawer supports, and the depth of the dovetail socket. I cut two measuring sticks. One to the height of the bottom drawer and the other to the height of the top drawer. I used these to mark the location of the drawer supports on either side to make everything consistent. As with my carcass dovetails, I used masking tape to make everything more visible. I marked the thickness of the drawer support using an offcut (offcuts are great to keep during a project for times like these, just be sure to label them). Then I used a marking gauge to mark the depth of the socket. </span></span><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioh4kqYEosuW47NMXVa66rhZ3B3VR6ZblRJRDWqr7wrCLni4dbNuhnJ9CTVxhjVYHaiBxf1AoHbGIdPcwHJExqGqd7IOgJXjuwndRUlNDN2OWP8BLef-hz9MF1wah90k4CdZ3bGT6mi2D2/s1600-h/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioh4kqYEosuW47NMXVa66rhZ3B3VR6ZblRJRDWqr7wrCLni4dbNuhnJ9CTVxhjVYHaiBxf1AoHbGIdPcwHJExqGqd7IOgJXjuwndRUlNDN2OWP8BLef-hz9MF1wah90k4CdZ3bGT6mi2D2/s320/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+01.jpg" /></span></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ePqYgu9g3GhskZQ_VWxD8lyiTixIV8zt7kgYorBj0zts1wsdOzYnBCz5rjtEfP1n94kDQYMfatno9dkYSeIctLbSU9IFRezJZgF3g8JRERTw77UOIhldmRyjBXg45Lklpm1-1wuWkHkz/s1600-h/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9ePqYgu9g3GhskZQ_VWxD8lyiTixIV8zt7kgYorBj0zts1wsdOzYnBCz5rjtEfP1n94kDQYMfatno9dkYSeIctLbSU9IFRezJZgF3g8JRERTw77UOIhldmRyjBXg45Lklpm1-1wuWkHkz/s320/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+02.jpg" /></span></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6ZvRq34PXGuVpKqgUBvAa1MYM1sFMFlGVEc6dK33JIhKIHMtOKvTYSvsbwZT0whvQNyZ9xpGSujQu0QI6AN0QAY0YxVQrE9TMmy3ZMGHJDUX4tqzUfPLKW56ASbZQIsbi3U-FKBioyQ_H/s1600-h/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6ZvRq34PXGuVpKqgUBvAa1MYM1sFMFlGVEc6dK33JIhKIHMtOKvTYSvsbwZT0whvQNyZ9xpGSujQu0QI6AN0QAY0YxVQrE9TMmy3ZMGHJDUX4tqzUfPLKW56ASbZQIsbi3U-FKBioyQ_H/s320/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+03.jpg" /></span></a><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br />
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</div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> At this point I have all the info I need to make my cuts. I place the sawing guide block over the layout marks so that the fence registers with the bottom corner of the layout. I start the cut with my crosscut back saw, keeping the saw pressed against the guide block. I try to be careful to saw down to the depth mark on the edge. On the face I saw past the mark because it will make for less work chiseling out the waste, besides it will be covered by part of the drawer frame. For me the key about using a guide block for this has been to not depend on the guide so much that I forget good sawing techniques. Keep a relaxed grip and your arm in alignment. Wax on the saw blade doesn't hurt either. </span></span><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtYw76yTyWCBgpZZRjsTjWB9qxtJLu4BGkxiZbJMukQCgHf2CQLPqgvjqi5d63yCvcImEU-sdZcdRJaTb6YEBpt3DRCUfhhevkUS8hJeCENK3z_wzGTGwRQQiTrkyaa_tI9LqR50TiVgJt/s1600-h/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtYw76yTyWCBgpZZRjsTjWB9qxtJLu4BGkxiZbJMukQCgHf2CQLPqgvjqi5d63yCvcImEU-sdZcdRJaTb6YEBpt3DRCUfhhevkUS8hJeCENK3z_wzGTGwRQQiTrkyaa_tI9LqR50TiVgJt/s400/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+06.jpg" /></span></a><br />
</div><div style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br />
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</div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> The rest of the kerf will be cut to depth using a Japanese dovetail saw. This works well because it has teeth at the tip enabling it to cut all the way to the end of the dovetail socket, and it cuts on the pull stroke which keeps the sawdust from clogging things up. I put a piece of tape on the blade to mark my target depth. </span></span><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuWuX4KvgHNTjx2UPsICiCZZ8weeWexVYsvfrsLaaY3HVR1Q_ZvSFBsODeCh2IynFROOs8B433z7lx7HTvfMYI0Nezec9StJuBbNl1LpSumnxhp1PMZidN3fJH4W3nOs4cb1fQMh95iX3D/s1600-h/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+07.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhuWuX4KvgHNTjx2UPsICiCZZ8weeWexVYsvfrsLaaY3HVR1Q_ZvSFBsODeCh2IynFROOs8B433z7lx7HTvfMYI0Nezec9StJuBbNl1LpSumnxhp1PMZidN3fJH4W3nOs4cb1fQMh95iX3D/s400/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+07.jpg" /></span></a><br />
</div><div style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br />
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</div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> After both sides of the dovetail socket are cut I use the chisels and a mallet to knock out the majority of the waste. I pay careful attention to the show side of the joint removing just a little section first. After this I can knock out the rest pretty easily. </span></span><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5n_HqQAIMp4WaAJY2U_EKlaFaTEhdneYeWYKLTN1le70VQ5P5svEutV3DWEqv5S45ujNUqf3bEcFhz1uDOTr1d-KT5JnkpOMpRf07QjK_m3i557RcVk3QP0jmPWIa4QwqGt47y8_EovQ6/s1600-h/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5n_HqQAIMp4WaAJY2U_EKlaFaTEhdneYeWYKLTN1le70VQ5P5svEutV3DWEqv5S45ujNUqf3bEcFhz1uDOTr1d-KT5JnkpOMpRf07QjK_m3i557RcVk3QP0jmPWIa4QwqGt47y8_EovQ6/s400/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+08.jpg" /></span></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> Two things I found helpful are to take only a quarter-inch at a time and to twist the chisel after splitting each section to try to turn the waste chunk making it easier to remove without getting it wedged-in. If there's still a lot of waste left after the chopping you can run the chisel parallel with the depth to clean it out a bit.</span></span><br />
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</span> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRfzyHdWImqdnaHeGgz8ayiIebuP4R8M8-cYjlIZeBtC2LgJszzHvQWR_6SZ2La2OIGsWgrr0o9CAY8roaDbsF-ZeF7h_fUNgtbxdu5W-r7sUQm1oVY9LV6kk_ALgeYN6waDYFpuk8Lx4X/s1600-h/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+09.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhRfzyHdWImqdnaHeGgz8ayiIebuP4R8M8-cYjlIZeBtC2LgJszzHvQWR_6SZ2La2OIGsWgrr0o9CAY8roaDbsF-ZeF7h_fUNgtbxdu5W-r7sUQm1oVY9LV6kk_ALgeYN6waDYFpuk8Lx4X/s400/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+09.jpg" /></span></a><br />
</div><div style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br />
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</div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> If you're really good I suppose you could finish it all up with the chisel but I am fortunate to have a router plane. This is neither as loud or obnoxious as its tailed equivalent. I set the depth and rout the bottom to a finished depth. Skewing the blade help to get into the corners. Having a perfect bottom is not important. As long as the angle of the walls are right and the drawer supports are cut right I should have a tight fit.</span></span><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglkPiC0Neqs0nf-56FNrH9v1z529cdsHqNN_KAWzV_7gGjGeh7A7c9g6ASSnFKmJmf_aDZmNr6Z5hql5iept6mMt0aMcs8pY5IyLVc7AlyhIvYpTTd8c3YWF48kgkl1hxdonmt-62UrPWx/s1600-h/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglkPiC0Neqs0nf-56FNrH9v1z529cdsHqNN_KAWzV_7gGjGeh7A7c9g6ASSnFKmJmf_aDZmNr6Z5hql5iept6mMt0aMcs8pY5IyLVc7AlyhIvYpTTd8c3YWF48kgkl1hxdonmt-62UrPWx/s400/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+10.jpg" /></span></a><br />
</div><div style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 14px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br />
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</div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> Cutting the dovetail tenons are much easier and faster as I had thought. I've seen this done easily with a dovetail plane. I don't have a dovetail plane so that means I'll be using a chisel. After coming up with this next part I don't think I'll be wanting a dovetail plane anyway.</span></span><br />
</div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> The nice part about cutting this joint is that the angles are all the same. I made a guide block to use as a paring guide with the same bevel angle as the other guide blocks. The way I use it is about as simple as it gets. I position it at the end of my drawer support on the bench and secure them between the wagon vise and a bench dog. I put a clamp near the middle of the stock to keep it from bowing up from the pressure.</span></span><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKzzbHqj_yGCAhe4x-vQT6tFdGaxJ9sxFUZfUvXt5U3qACxkJoeL9qZyaPZrBsDP3QScyOJoKi7_A_7K8oJJvPDJbjJYaiiBkVqcj1EQKcp6hZkxQ5Ekpc_6KWi7BjfeWDuDWUiRuHkXNc/s1600-h/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKzzbHqj_yGCAhe4x-vQT6tFdGaxJ9sxFUZfUvXt5U3qACxkJoeL9qZyaPZrBsDP3QScyOJoKi7_A_7K8oJJvPDJbjJYaiiBkVqcj1EQKcp6hZkxQ5Ekpc_6KWi7BjfeWDuDWUiRuHkXNc/s400/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+12.jpg" /></span></a><br />
</div><div style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 14px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br />
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</div><div style="font: 12.0px Helvetica; margin: 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px 0.0px; min-height: 14.0px;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> I make sure the top edge of the stock meets the edge of the beveled guide block. Here I use playing cards as shims to make it even. </span></span><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgycXkJo3oYWCGEaaJI5vkigkItpMRL6Ip09dH0xCNtm9w0YiPnx4byF71apC4L5sgk_0RUjKjZ7PnWiNc-2VA9bn-gTCLuUyFpet6HkXVtTQWMWNFlNPrRvwYEGWQPHH9CyY1NJhIokic2/s1600-h/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+13.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgycXkJo3oYWCGEaaJI5vkigkItpMRL6Ip09dH0xCNtm9w0YiPnx4byF71apC4L5sgk_0RUjKjZ7PnWiNc-2VA9bn-gTCLuUyFpet6HkXVtTQWMWNFlNPrRvwYEGWQPHH9CyY1NJhIokic2/s400/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+13.jpg" /></span></a><br />
</div><div style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 14px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br />
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</div><div style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 14px; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> I've marked the shoulder to the depth of the dovetail socket, made a deep cut with a marking knife and square and then cut a fence for the saw with a chisel. Making a fence, or trough, for your saw to ride in is a great technique. Clean, accurate cuts every time. Using a wide chisel, you can find the depth of your shoulder. I'll cut down to this line with my crosscut saw.</span></span><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuWxgZy6E5BFOxJ_awaj-xuQgVsWJqHa5r7c8jYLM70OZJ31pRetjQR_LzYW739rSRf-aHdVd1SKfpPNi9QRXaB101RhP2kaCsipCgKhPMbXqAO7pjVk9fBFV_04s3O11sOtuUnDR3qF6d/s1600-h/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuWxgZy6E5BFOxJ_awaj-xuQgVsWJqHa5r7c8jYLM70OZJ31pRetjQR_LzYW739rSRf-aHdVd1SKfpPNi9QRXaB101RhP2kaCsipCgKhPMbXqAO7pjVk9fBFV_04s3O11sOtuUnDR3qF6d/s400/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+15.jpg" /></span></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> </span><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;">To pare away the waste I've found it easiest to cut across the grain with a wide chisel, working down to the angle of the guide block when half of the chisel is riding on the block and the other half is cutting the dovetail tenon flush. The amount of waste is small so this all goes surprisingly fast.</span></span><br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_uG1d4V-APvJrQFerQyMR_8W6An534Q0Qv3yJ2FhEVbR4sl2ktPF2jMVRWn40KtzaPd25C7HmNAcK4NdmCPZqIvHu-onISB7GPgSQNhvs4zlO3zqV0MRla1XoB6r1drL20dCjpD0AO6Ta/s1600-h/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_uG1d4V-APvJrQFerQyMR_8W6An534Q0Qv3yJ2FhEVbR4sl2ktPF2jMVRWn40KtzaPd25C7HmNAcK4NdmCPZqIvHu-onISB7GPgSQNhvs4zlO3zqV0MRla1XoB6r1drL20dCjpD0AO6Ta/s400/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+16.jpg" /></span></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"> At this point you can fit the pieces together and adjust as necessary. The few I've done so far have not needed to be adjusted much at all. Lucky, I guess. What has resulted is a strong joint ready for glue. This may not be picture perfect but it's the drawer support in the back. I need to watch my layout lines better for the ones in the front.</span></span><br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDY4FtQXCVwEWo4n0HwE2QDxEpLpiW7qlwf4JYxxJhsNmsNfda__Tk1JjiNNLtT3wGQphVdn4qf3Zt9mNznAz6tWd-ZYXu-NFuO_Ia0XkUSSVTMK5fjLA6eSu-Te2s8OKZU9Xs5njHqf74/s1600-h/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDY4FtQXCVwEWo4n0HwE2QDxEpLpiW7qlwf4JYxxJhsNmsNfda__Tk1JjiNNLtT3wGQphVdn4qf3Zt9mNznAz6tWd-ZYXu-NFuO_Ia0XkUSSVTMK5fjLA6eSu-Te2s8OKZU9Xs5njHqf74/s640/Housed+dovetails+by+hand+-+17.jpg" /></span></a><br />
<div style="font: normal normal normal 12px/normal Helvetica; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; min-height: 14px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Times, 'Times New Roman', serif;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: medium;"><br />
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</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; text-align: left;"> Well, that's what I've come up with. I'm sure there are other ways to skin this cat. If you have any other techniques please feel free to share. Until then, I have to finish up the rest of these stopped sliding dovetails and move on to mortise and tenons (by hand of course), moulding, the dresser base and eventually drawers. We're getting there, a little bit at a time. Oh, and if anyone knows what the official name of this joint is please, let me know!<br />
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</div>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-64350525376024728772009-11-26T18:36:00.003-05:002009-11-29T16:07:05.776-05:00Carcass dovetails...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> I found a few hours in the past couple of days to finish the carcass dovetails. I've been using common techniques with mixed results in the past and have picked up a few tips from poking around the net. I even came up with something on my own. Probably not new but I've not seen it yet.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Laying out dovetails in walnut can be difficult for me because it's hard to see a pencil line or a knife line. I tried a white charcoal pencil but the line wasn't fine enough for me. I had an idea to use masking tape which I think was a good idea. Here's what I did. I laid the tape down where my marking line would be, then I marked my line with a marking gauge cutting the tape. I removed the tape to reveal a nice distinct reference line. Have any of you used tape for layout lines before?<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1fjZckJzwDXXSx-hQDbbagbc_Lqxg7P7D5G66S342FnQ8N1WT2yfMSojGxmLAIPFRvoQdcHeNKBvnilow7hIQrncbEZ1eTtLwWKrOYDpcBQ-UCTDKD20VWBe3XtVX_YgdpkFitVbYaAXE/s1600/Last+Import+-+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1fjZckJzwDXXSx-hQDbbagbc_Lqxg7P7D5G66S342FnQ8N1WT2yfMSojGxmLAIPFRvoQdcHeNKBvnilow7hIQrncbEZ1eTtLwWKrOYDpcBQ-UCTDKD20VWBe3XtVX_YgdpkFitVbYaAXE/s400/Last+Import+-+1.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> It is much easier to follow a line when you can see it. I finally got around to using a spotlight and I was glad I did. I do need to pick up a florescent bulb some time because the regular ones get quite hot when they're 12-inches away!<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHZ-o39P8wlc7nLhjf6Bt3YhP-cC3DkgoPtrVLaVqB9IzwTZpbqAZFFWFeKmBDDdoHasoWhf9ijsXkauzwod3N8mMufZ6Nqw_Zbk9w7BmlMc3LIYPHOW6peCPfaJgFkyJTTShDuMzZlOUi/s1600/Last+Import+-+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHZ-o39P8wlc7nLhjf6Bt3YhP-cC3DkgoPtrVLaVqB9IzwTZpbqAZFFWFeKmBDDdoHasoWhf9ijsXkauzwod3N8mMufZ6Nqw_Zbk9w7BmlMc3LIYPHOW6peCPfaJgFkyJTTShDuMzZlOUi/s400/Last+Import+-+3.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> It seems almost unnecessary to mark the waste portions but it really reminds you which side of the line you need to be on. Definitely a few seconds well spent.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAo4hu6xnWCgzpGKiKLQmIav8pUXgcq3E_OPkuCj54mQeB-lFUUYIuOwSCJ5dkUx8k4GluwA4fMI9CWkI5ejKrE4-61XfunSL5PsxI_WsfMk2lG8xeJabpThq9bjhcwhVq50yAXyN9sWuE/s1600/Last+Import+-+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAo4hu6xnWCgzpGKiKLQmIav8pUXgcq3E_OPkuCj54mQeB-lFUUYIuOwSCJ5dkUx8k4GluwA4fMI9CWkI5ejKrE4-61XfunSL5PsxI_WsfMk2lG8xeJabpThq9bjhcwhVq50yAXyN9sWuE/s400/Last+Import+-+4.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Cutting out the waste with the coping saw has been my least favorite part. These dovetails are about an inch thick so cutting between pins with a 5-inch blade hasn't been fun to me. I'm hoping the dovetails for the drawers will be easier by comparison. I'm thinking about trying out a fret saw like that Cosman guy.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx0R-fPAcoiL4CJ8rEwVZzr5-oyT2_ddXpp7HYetcpAdqGCeVQgWQxBVZq6-l6bh_H0kO7OIAgVrgQAuJKDsKxkpitLaXpTJRah5rza8cQvP60bKt67bJtWI32s8P2eDBY0ZVNdnewRauv/s1600/Last+Import+-+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgx0R-fPAcoiL4CJ8rEwVZzr5-oyT2_ddXpp7HYetcpAdqGCeVQgWQxBVZq6-l6bh_H0kO7OIAgVrgQAuJKDsKxkpitLaXpTJRah5rza8cQvP60bKt67bJtWI32s8P2eDBY0ZVNdnewRauv/s400/Last+Import+-+5.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Chopping out the waste with chisels can be a pretty tedious job but I kinda like it. It tends to be a repetitive, rhythmic task best done while listening to good music. I've started to use a chopping guide for this part to help me keep the lines straight. Before I always seemed to have at least a couple stray chops which ruined what was otherwise decent dovetails. I picked this up from <a href="http://villagecarpenter.blogspot.com/">The Village Carpenter</a>, Kari Hultman who picked it up from <a href="http://www.davidfinck.com/">David Finck</a>. The face of the block that guides the chisel is beveled a couple degrees so that the chisel cuts a slight hollow toward the middle of the board's thickness. This prevents leaving humps in the middle which results in gaps after assembly. I use a smaller chisel first to get rid of most of the waste, chopping down about half-way. To me this is easier than a broad chisel at this point.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_vJS85PdNzm4D-k6Tro62iNQIhr-4O9OVz659S0ObeWxQQOs1Vq6xJTMmFntqTNfRzz5idwajbmYqH9ebJ3JXGBAqPq8HBNwM5Wf-_FLHqsxSdjF4gseZwouIgkEjEoqanZaHQoljrFnf/s1600/Last+Import+-+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh_vJS85PdNzm4D-k6Tro62iNQIhr-4O9OVz659S0ObeWxQQOs1Vq6xJTMmFntqTNfRzz5idwajbmYqH9ebJ3JXGBAqPq8HBNwM5Wf-_FLHqsxSdjF4gseZwouIgkEjEoqanZaHQoljrFnf/s400/Last+Import+-+7.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> When I chop away all but 1/32 of an inch I switch to a broad chisel and take a clean finish cut. After one side is done I turn it all over and finish the other side. By the way, holdfasts are great. The ones from Gramercy at <a href="http://Toolsforworkingwood.com/">Toolsforworkingwood.com </a> seem to be the standard anymore, and for good reason. <br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi09YjVE5a2tGUFdbW0aYTy77ACEJcuSFugxTz0T3YsUeEmV86jf3Hme1GNzGOIrtVFdwaNGkmPQ4tjD1dIv-Uimv29Aws3Z7Me1hYkz3bzVba_v9m15DPfAhDttZXGPYf3ZVpjAFy1rB0c/s1600/Last+Import+-+8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi09YjVE5a2tGUFdbW0aYTy77ACEJcuSFugxTz0T3YsUeEmV86jf3Hme1GNzGOIrtVFdwaNGkmPQ4tjD1dIv-Uimv29Aws3Z7Me1hYkz3bzVba_v9m15DPfAhDttZXGPYf3ZVpjAFy1rB0c/s400/Last+Import+-+8.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> I'm still not quite there with dovetails but I am getting better and much more confident. There's always a lot of talk about hand-cut dovetails; they are the Holy Grail of joinery. It seems many woodworkers are constantly searching for tricks or tips or magic spells for success. In my short experience I have found a few tips which have helped but the one thing which has helped me the most and which virtually guarantees success in the future is PRACTICE. Just like the time when I tried to break-in my new dovetail saw by cutting a couple hundred kerfs in scrap. Not only did I break-in my saw, I got better at sawing. You can't make or buy a jig for practice.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDcBoLx592pOsDuKKIHW3_TSlg9D1BjPZ3kpHih42XOjTs94lePW0aGYFDhyphenhyphenVpwiVcMM8TfzR8oDVeGKR6IcvtvRJpLyZL1TQ1ZRwyHUORvGB1phKcdwY-JxP_JrsV25gnbtcdESvU9YY_/s1600/Last+Import+-+9.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDcBoLx592pOsDuKKIHW3_TSlg9D1BjPZ3kpHih42XOjTs94lePW0aGYFDhyphenhyphenVpwiVcMM8TfzR8oDVeGKR6IcvtvRJpLyZL1TQ1ZRwyHUORvGB1phKcdwY-JxP_JrsV25gnbtcdESvU9YY_/s640/Last+Import+-+9.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizwdUuAgK8yX3poGKL2nWE6w3y8KxNLYPuDUMfUIjsi0238P_JFPc-azy7-F-kZtSEUAVxHacE7wIB33etZQFPURmFF14P7FCv6HQFtZUmFQmN4_sm2KeUUPHuO7GO_vV0RrVe-LDb_Mr3/s1600/Carcass+dovetails+-+14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizwdUuAgK8yX3poGKL2nWE6w3y8KxNLYPuDUMfUIjsi0238P_JFPc-azy7-F-kZtSEUAVxHacE7wIB33etZQFPURmFF14P7FCv6HQFtZUmFQmN4_sm2KeUUPHuO7GO_vV0RrVe-LDb_Mr3/s640/Carcass+dovetails+-+14.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div> I finally did glue up the carcass. It was rather... stressful. Even though I was convinced I had everything adjusted to go together, it was a pain in the butt to pull everything together. I ended-up using clamps, a mallet and a lot of cussing to coax it all into place. Even though it was a tight fit I ended up with a few visible gaps. Fortunately, that's nothing a few small wedges and glue can't hide.<br />
I'm really looking forward to the next round of joinery, hand-cut housed dovetails. This will be used to join the drawer dividers to the carcass sides. I've been trying different techniques to cut this by hand and I think I've got a process that will work for me. Unfortunately there's not a lot about this hand-cut joint on the net. Maybe we can change that. Check back in the next week or two and I'll have something to show you.<br />
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Happy Thanksgiving!<br />
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<b><i>-RM</i></b>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-56237654720925708022009-11-21T17:33:00.002-05:002009-11-21T17:34:36.519-05:00The Cottage Studio<div style="text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixwBwj0sBpxNPbUTcR0XGrBMnY4CTA3LTRIOUTamfTw8AomCli_BzrBXlM9vAvERqHfliBV4FYK8U1UxbIg9SIQvsjwS1HgX28wxGZDiZnpcyPyCHO6r17rOX8XWAN8mEiNVTtQWB1x_fX/s1600/IMG_5931_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixwBwj0sBpxNPbUTcR0XGrBMnY4CTA3LTRIOUTamfTw8AomCli_BzrBXlM9vAvERqHfliBV4FYK8U1UxbIg9SIQvsjwS1HgX28wxGZDiZnpcyPyCHO6r17rOX8XWAN8mEiNVTtQWB1x_fX/s400/IMG_5931_2.jpg" /></a><br />
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When I fixed up the cottage to be used as a workshop I really wanted it to be more of a studio. A place where all of us could go to make things and be creative away from the distractions of the house; e.g., U-verse, Wii and <a href="http://addictinggames.com/">addictinggames.com</a> (I dare you). Today it happened and I was happy. Justin and I were working on a science project and Shawn and Ryan were painting birdhouses we picked up at Hobby Lobby over a month ago. This was a moment to savor because winter is coming quick and the holidays are upon us. The world as we know it accelerates into a frenzy until the ball drops New Year's Eve. As a bonus, I even finished a row of dovetails for the dresser project -and had a beer.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxnimwyPx9qLpan_W33Fui9c5eyJM4UiYhnJRaZxOSTr_RCdQUBgjoPwXo-AedPg2ko7kNCHFU7LShfVqT8hgpF8of1PWd3doUGrS1JjO1SL9zLDYk1kQSlHiDy8SBaOw1ileQCaNpWgwL/s1600/IMG_5933.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxnimwyPx9qLpan_W33Fui9c5eyJM4UiYhnJRaZxOSTr_RCdQUBgjoPwXo-AedPg2ko7kNCHFU7LShfVqT8hgpF8of1PWd3doUGrS1JjO1SL9zLDYk1kQSlHiDy8SBaOw1ileQCaNpWgwL/s200/IMG_5933.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9LyDVCsSzCEl-ZpAJkuIN8nrvD_6aQo5A5YbKrwxNvkMgCucpWmWVaj_X-sKNIpsK2jOWxw2zMy-L9f2IZAGK7H5SJTuVKkqVmn9XtxeyjIGK6Loe-qRFJuseezPi7yPSaHRHVp2MWAy4/s1600/IMG_5925.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9LyDVCsSzCEl-ZpAJkuIN8nrvD_6aQo5A5YbKrwxNvkMgCucpWmWVaj_X-sKNIpsK2jOWxw2zMy-L9f2IZAGK7H5SJTuVKkqVmn9XtxeyjIGK6Loe-qRFJuseezPi7yPSaHRHVp2MWAy4/s200/IMG_5925.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-57820378190892366222009-11-10T20:51:00.004-05:002009-11-10T20:58:06.654-05:00More milling and flattening...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghz7sJW1NXaLN79QDwLKnVnu5T-XYpM0hGilyCqDZpyjRP7yag3unawFnOhY1MfN8IYFsHC4MGZhlFM6cSI4vUq7PGbZn5SLFT6qvIJK2Zq4r2MfjPukZfRLfzMgGTWNJrhyphenhyphenor2lpYdCJN/s1600-h/Flat+Panels.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghz7sJW1NXaLN79QDwLKnVnu5T-XYpM0hGilyCqDZpyjRP7yag3unawFnOhY1MfN8IYFsHC4MGZhlFM6cSI4vUq7PGbZn5SLFT6qvIJK2Zq4r2MfjPukZfRLfzMgGTWNJrhyphenhyphenor2lpYdCJN/s400/Flat+Panels.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Today I was back in the barn to mill up the rest of the walnut for the top and bottom of the dresser. I got everything laid out and glued up and went to the cottage to finish flattening the other two panels which will be the sides of the dresser. I had to take out some slight bowing in both panels so I got to use my jack planes and smoother to get them close enough to flat. This was a good opportunity to make a time-lapse video of my day. I used a program called <a href="http://gawker.sourceforge.net/Gawker.html">Gawker</a> that I downloaded for free and I thought it was a lot of fun to make. The song is<i> Faster, Sooner, Now</i> by David Gray. Enjoy!<br />
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</div><object width="340" height="285"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/tw_e0Hs44VM&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0&color1=0x5d1719&color2=0xcd311b&border=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/tw_e0Hs44VM&hl=en&fs=1&rel=0&color1=0x5d1719&color2=0xcd311b&border=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="445" height="364"></embed></object>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-78973974190458498142009-11-06T14:04:00.004-05:002009-11-06T14:11:14.203-05:00Graduated Drawers<div style="text-align: center;"><b><br />
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<b>*Warning*</b><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>This post contains arithmetic in the form of whole numbers, fractions and decimals</i><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>some resulting from addition, subtraction, multiplication and division.</i><br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;"><b>*Proceed at your own risk*</b><br />
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When I was laying out the plans for the dresser on SketchUp I needed to determine the sizes of the drawers. I knew I wanted six drawers in three rows. The width would be the same for all six but I wanted the height to be graduated, that is, each drawer would be larger than the one above. I'm not much in the know about traditional furniture design but I did know that drawers were often graduated to give weight to the design and to lead the eye upward. I suppose with three rows of drawers I could figure it out on my own, eventually, but I came upon an article by Christian Becksvoort (<i>Designing Furniture</i>, Taunton Press 2004) which was very helpful and I thought I would share it with you. If you're like me you learn better with visual explanations so I made some examples on SketchUp so I could attempt to do the article justice.<br />
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To find the dimensions of graduated drawers we need to know the following measurements:<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"> The Total height of the dresser<br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;">The thickness of the top, base and dividers within the carcase<br />
</div><div style="text-align: center;">The number of drawers<br />
</div><div style="text-align: left;">There is a slight variation in this method depending on wether you want an odd or even number of drawers.<br />
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So let's begin with a dresser carcase with a dimension of 24" wide by 48" high constructed of 3/4" stock. We would like this dresser to have six drawers but in graduated heights.<br />
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Step 1. Determine the <b><i>Usable Drawer Height</i></b><br />
Take the total height of the dresser, 48" and subtract the thickness of the top (3/4"), base (3/4") and dividers (5 dividers x 3/4" = 3-3/4"). In this example the usable drawer height is 48" minus 5-1/4", or 42-3/4"<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZvf9h2ip92uV0pfqh_Rm1a6o7AzcJvkMYt0boHG4mKQQnAl1nFXisg7vFwwU7KKfl4FBTqiDL4l_VgqOqAjkZTuensuZku-dsbIlWr_zxav34vvW8QpoFkP5xctWrSDm_DKSD4mb7gOR6/s1600-h/Dresser+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZvf9h2ip92uV0pfqh_Rm1a6o7AzcJvkMYt0boHG4mKQQnAl1nFXisg7vFwwU7KKfl4FBTqiDL4l_VgqOqAjkZTuensuZku-dsbIlWr_zxav34vvW8QpoFkP5xctWrSDm_DKSD4mb7gOR6/s320/Dresser+2.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Step 2. Determine the <b><i>Average Drawer Height</i></b><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b><i> </i><span style="font-weight: normal;">Take the usable drawer height and divide that by the number of drawers you want to find the average height of each drawer. In this case it would be 42-3/4" divided by 6 which equals 7-1/8"</span></b><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Step 3. Decide how much you want to graduate each drawer. I think traditionally drawers were graduated by the thickness of the dividers. Becksvoort uses 1-inch graduations which is what I'll use here.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Step 4. Find the height of each graduated drawer<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>Even number of drawers</b>.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> For dressers with an even number of drawers the height of the drawer just below the middle divider would be the same as the average drawer height <i><b>plus half of the graduation increment</b></i>. In this case it will be 7-5/8" high. The dresser just below this would be 1-inch taller or 8-5/8". Add an additional inch to each drawer below. For each drawer above you would subtract an inch from the height of the drawer below it. The result in our example would look like this...<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit5U0JfmKztKWX-H57DQAG0-RS68qdJos9UZNJ__iluP17mTsj0F8Rn1SXZE9zsVvsHr4oK9zZTEwS9tZ2o84Ov-P5-hl01jIZrN-hhfjp4Jrx7R47G5TNEQZFhSp3oDU62PbLNxL1f22L/s1600-h/Graduated+Drawers+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit5U0JfmKztKWX-H57DQAG0-RS68qdJos9UZNJ__iluP17mTsj0F8Rn1SXZE9zsVvsHr4oK9zZTEwS9tZ2o84Ov-P5-hl01jIZrN-hhfjp4Jrx7R47G5TNEQZFhSp3oDU62PbLNxL1f22L/s400/Graduated+Drawers+3.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">For a set with an<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b>Odd Number of Drawers</b><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><b> </b>For dressers with an odd number of drawers it's a little simpler. The height of the middle drawer is the same as the average drawer height. Simply subtract the graduation increment for the smaller drawers above and add the graduated increment for the larger drawers below.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Let's say we wanted our dresser to have five drawers instead of six. With four drawer dividers (4x3/4"=3") plus the top and bottom (2x3/4"=1-1/2") subtracted from the total height of 48" we have a usable drawer height of 43-1/2". If we divide this by 5 drawers we get and average drawer height of 8.7" or just under 8-3/4". If we use this to layout our drawers our middle drawer would be 8-3/4". We would add an inch to the larger drawers below and subtract an inch from the smaller ones above. It would look something like this...<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEsWXoxJyoFubmHQw_STZpEhDnnHNjw0a3ZuZwk8j9K5w4eGi0zwHuGRSZtVuy56TRynBwhoB1VOY33nKGHi3HyYcar-3eAtA-pE2Qt1s3jVO_FBdN6cgd3_9VMw2buRiELCgy5DWXUxwz/s1600-h/Graduated+Drawers+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEsWXoxJyoFubmHQw_STZpEhDnnHNjw0a3ZuZwk8j9K5w4eGi0zwHuGRSZtVuy56TRynBwhoB1VOY33nKGHi3HyYcar-3eAtA-pE2Qt1s3jVO_FBdN6cgd3_9VMw2buRiELCgy5DWXUxwz/s400/Graduated+Drawers+4.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Of course the top drawer ends up being 6-1/2" but if it bothers you then you can make your average drawer exactly 8.7" or 8-45/64" if that's what you're into.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> If you just think about the concept it's not too confusing. This is just one way to layout graduated drawers that I thought was pretty simple as long as you don't get caught up in being exact. It's a good place to start I think but if you know of any other methods I'd like to hear about it.<br />
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</div>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-52826173585311705802009-11-04T11:10:00.001-05:002009-11-04T11:12:40.198-05:00Back in the Workshop<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqNW7i8tQhJ_0eE1DMOo6LdBaKDHJVp6bCNcHTDBUm8_rzjmISrR6064akpxT82bWzhOnUyLNi9OcaCzZA1NohT5RajOKYnXAPzj_-Y174VeAE-SgHF2C__1nnlZFK8f5eqetpkdDbza3G/s1600-h/Milling1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqNW7i8tQhJ_0eE1DMOo6LdBaKDHJVp6bCNcHTDBUm8_rzjmISrR6064akpxT82bWzhOnUyLNi9OcaCzZA1NohT5RajOKYnXAPzj_-Y174VeAE-SgHF2C__1nnlZFK8f5eqetpkdDbza3G/s320/Milling1.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div> After a nice vacation in the Florida Keys and a couple days in Chicago for the <a href="http://www.davidgray.com/">David Gray</a> show I am back in the workshop. Yesterday I spent some time cleaning up the workshop in the barn, sweeping up and putting away tools. It's hard for me to feel focused on a project unless I have some semblance of order in my space. I'm no clean freak by any means but I do find it easier and safer if I don't have to worry about stepping over piles of scrap lumber and cut-offs and searching for clear bench space. When you have to squeeze-in time for woodworking I work until the last minute which leaves clean up for another day.<br />
After things were tidy I made some sawdust milling up parts for the dresser sides. I met my goal of gluing-up both sides leaving the top and bottom for today. After all sides are done I'll probably have to re-flatten them a bit and cut them to length. Then the real fun begins: dovetails. Through dovetails, half-blinds, and sliding. I'm definitely planning on hand cutting the through and half-blind dovetails, but I'm leaning toward using a router for the sliding dovetails with the drawer supports. I'm sure I could make it happen by hand, but I've got a busy schedule and I'd like to get this done sooner than later.<br />
I've finished some plans in SketchUp to show what I'm planning. I wanted to make a Shaker-inspired dresser with six drawers to fit in Ryan's room which has a wall which angles in about four feet up. I wanted to design it so it was obviously made by hand so the joinery includes visible dovetails in the top as well as the drawers. I'm thinking about turning the drawer handles from walnut and then staining them black.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisB_Bu-DveK57gPmXNsPSO_WwOJFXuSrHYPayFfqXsLas-dQx1-CyFl-PrdrQ29OQvcEC_ZsZunHYqdyJ8_blT6Gcb8dJJzC6GtwQJiBsItM_g7w20EzMFs7ARlV1J8HJtJUnGV8TwCwax/s1600-h/Ryan's+drawer+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisB_Bu-DveK57gPmXNsPSO_WwOJFXuSrHYPayFfqXsLas-dQx1-CyFl-PrdrQ29OQvcEC_ZsZunHYqdyJ8_blT6Gcb8dJJzC6GtwQJiBsItM_g7w20EzMFs7ARlV1J8HJtJUnGV8TwCwax/s400/Ryan's+drawer+1.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> The part of the design I'm most concerned about is the base and how it connects to the case while at the same time allowing the case to expand and contract throughout the seasons. After researching other designs I decided to construct the base moulding around a frame and then attach it to the bottom of the base by glue along the front only, and then screws in oversized holes toward the middle and back.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvNBcKL70aS1cEXWXU0305CsImVqK9-2KEp7ilCd-FWCJrgn8uhJd8I8EZVGWh_hKv6YSRqOJouviDsZ-Dq5ahTGAMX9aecLJhFA-l_NBXjiUQTC3y2L1FGcYbCfrpoZdjbfeWovr6SxI-/s1600-h/Ryan's+drawer+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvNBcKL70aS1cEXWXU0305CsImVqK9-2KEp7ilCd-FWCJrgn8uhJd8I8EZVGWh_hKv6YSRqOJouviDsZ-Dq5ahTGAMX9aecLJhFA-l_NBXjiUQTC3y2L1FGcYbCfrpoZdjbfeWovr6SxI-/s400/Ryan's+drawer+2.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> The moulding for the top will be attached using <a href="http://www.chbecksvoort.com/">Christian Becksvoort's</a> method shown in an article I read. He suggests using a sliding dovetail in the moulding which slides on to dovetailed keys screwed to the top 's end-grain. It's glued only to the front inch or so allowing the top to expand and retract without being held by the moulding. This will definitely be done with a router. If this sounds confusing I'll go into more detail when I get to that point.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> This may be my most involved project to date so I'm both excited and intimidated by it all. This could be either a big encouragement for me or could prove to be very discouraging. I know, one step at a time right?<br />
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</div>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-14887044695934433132009-10-21T04:05:00.002-04:002009-10-21T04:10:09.735-04:00Off to sunny Florida<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh18X1y-HW2w5IgBDm74YBuc4Hwv24WISUzw0D9I92hD0HJqzZ0LGNm3CpjuzcJhF-MY8Hq56dbBusdqm22Te7AwNJ1QyCjPk9loJxMQoJZ986RvkPltqAdtmJi3qsLtZSSH3ry_ExK67FZ/s1600-h/IMG_8191.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh18X1y-HW2w5IgBDm74YBuc4Hwv24WISUzw0D9I92hD0HJqzZ0LGNm3CpjuzcJhF-MY8Hq56dbBusdqm22Te7AwNJ1QyCjPk9loJxMQoJZ986RvkPltqAdtmJi3qsLtZSSH3ry_ExK67FZ/s400/IMG_8191.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Sophie, guarding the stash</span></i><br />
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</div> Tomorrow the family and I leave for Key Largo, Florida for a little fun and relaxation before the Indiana winter moves in. But before I do I wanted to take some time to rough cut the stock for the dresser and stack it in the cottage to dry out a bit more. I cut enough walnut for the carcass and placed them on the workbench. I took a reader's advice and put a light coat of shellac on the ends to keep them from splitting. Hopefully when I get back I can find time to mill them up and glue up the panels. Then finally I can get to some hand cut dovetails.<br />
I picked up a $12 moisture meter at Harbor Freight the other day. It seems to work but I'm not sure how accurate it is. I'll talk more about that later.<br />
My wife sent me a link to some Key Largo woodworking going on. looks like some <a href="http://www.woodshop102.com/">wacky stuff</a> by a guy named Rex Rothing. Nice woodworking info here, too.<br />
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<b><i>-RM</i></b>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-50938439855564806412009-10-19T13:09:00.004-04:002009-10-19T14:01:12.381-04:00Lie-Nielsen Tool Event comes to Indy<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj94fQX7_VfpFssab142DaaMV8rUeRXXg1NRILW0yh1zssbBDVC6Kry2UHDEpPVcd8nsnoO0J8uwl2VAj_yUYWHz8gdn8Ol7FM2NZo7lZkagM0bzdx65nMwCfX09zx-6mW-2a04O7LIokah/s1600-h/Lie-Nielsen+Tool+Event,+Indy+-+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj94fQX7_VfpFssab142DaaMV8rUeRXXg1NRILW0yh1zssbBDVC6Kry2UHDEpPVcd8nsnoO0J8uwl2VAj_yUYWHz8gdn8Ol7FM2NZo7lZkagM0bzdx65nMwCfX09zx-6mW-2a04O7LIokah/s320/Lie-Nielsen+Tool+Event,+Indy+-+02.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;"> Last Saturday I made time to visit the Lie-Nielsen Tool Event downtown at the Herron School of Art. If you've never been to a LN Tool Event then you're simply missing out. Not only do you get to gawk at some of the best made tools available (ever), you are encouraged to take them from the rack and try them out on one of their available workbenches. The event was hosted by Herron School of Art which is in its new diggs within the main IUPUI campus. Along with Lie-Nielsen tools were other tool makers, reps from the Marc Adams School of Woodworking, George Wilson discussing design and the Schwarz himself. For the most part it was a light crowd during the few hours I was there. My goal that day was to make a mess but using as many tools as I could. But first, I made my way around the room.<br />
</div> As was expected, <a href="http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/">Christopher Schwarz</a> was surrounded by a crowd of transient students taking-in his overflow of woodworking information. I went toward the <a href="http://glen-drake.com/">Glen-Drake toolworks</a> booth; my attention caught by his unique two handled dovetail saw. This, if I understand correctly, is intended to even the users body mechanics for a more accurate cut. Hmmm. I did really like the kerf starter and of course the Tite-Mark gauge.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Angie Kopacek of LN sharpening blades</i></span><br />
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</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> I looked over the bench hardware and Mag-Bloks from the <a href="http://benchcrafted.com/">Benchcrafted</a> booth. The Gliding bench vise is absolutely saweet. I met Jameel and took the Ron Brese planes for a spin on some cherry. Nice.<br />
</div> I talked for a while with <a href="http://kwerkltd.co.uk/">Stuart Denniss</a>, one of the guys representing the <a href="http://www.marcadams.com/">Marc Adams School of Woodworking</a>. Did you know that Marc Adams is the largest and one of the more prestigious woodworking schools in America? Did you know that Marc Adams is next to Whiteland, Indiana? I didn't know that until a couple years ago. Well Stuart is serving an internship there all the way from the UK. He was very pleasant to speak to about the school as well as his current project; an organic-looking stool made from a stone slab and pecan wood. Our conversation left me very interested in a future with Marc Adams.<br />
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</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i> Stuart Denniss of MASWW</i></span><br />
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I think I was most interested in Andrew Lunn's hand saws at the <a href="http://www.eccentricwoodcraft.com/page3_toolworks.html">Eccentric Tools</a> bench. Andrew is a former paramedic from Columbus, Ohio. I introduced myself and we talked some "shop" about the fire department and EMS. Its nice to see that one of the premier saw makers today is a former paramedic. Judging by the 14-month waiting period for one of his saws it seems his decision to take up saw making full-time is working out all right.<br />
Andrew invited me to try out his crosscut carcass saw by seeing how thin of an off-cut I could make. I took this as a challenge, and I like challenges. The best of the day so far was 0.024". My first try was for practice and to clean up the edge from the previous sawyer's attempt. Then, on the second try I was able to cut off a sliver 0.019" thick. It was a total fluke on may part. I credit the sweet saw. I had a great time trying all of his other saws as well. Another saw of note was his rip panel saw. I'm convinced I could cut decent drawer dovetails with this one it was so nice.<br />
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</div><div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Andrew Lunn holding my 0.019" off-cut</i></span><br />
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</div> I had a talk with George Wilson who gave a brief presentation on furniture design. He has a dvd available from LN that has my interest particularly because of my next dresser project.<br />
I think the highlight of the day for me was at Chris Schwarz's bench. As I was about to leave I noticed he had brought two of Mark Harrel's <a href="http://www.technoprimitives.com/bad_axe_tool_works_saws">Bad-Axe Tool Works</a> saws with him to Indy. A little test drive with the saws ended up being a sort of duel between Bad-Axe and Eccentric. It was a lot of fun comparing the two tenon saws but I don't think there were any clear winners; both were amazing. And, as Chris had revealed in the past, the Bad-Axe crosscut saw was actually really decent in the rip. Ok, now I want one.<br />
Andrew told Chris I had the thinnest off-cut of the day and so the Schwarz vowed to beat it. I got an email from Andrew today. It seems Chris had tied me at 0.019". However, we were both blown out of the water by someone from Marc Adams who had a 0.017". Maybe they offer a "Hand-cut Slivers" class down there?<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GpI_CDhrFMuYO_tfjVWZuPBNJ2SmXrjW0SJ2zAMBxRbkM-oI9UG49QrK7rmgOuEWLKvPKcvI8_dG2vTa2atMoHI2cp_mOd69nEr4igVKj9kw9IDUeX_WGrmzg_Ve0KH_tYTsYLqURIze/s1600-h/Lie-Nielsen+Tool+Event,+Indy+-+15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2GpI_CDhrFMuYO_tfjVWZuPBNJ2SmXrjW0SJ2zAMBxRbkM-oI9UG49QrK7rmgOuEWLKvPKcvI8_dG2vTa2atMoHI2cp_mOd69nEr4igVKj9kw9IDUeX_WGrmzg_Ve0KH_tYTsYLqURIze/s400/Lie-Nielsen+Tool+Event,+Indy+-+15.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Andrew Lunn and Christopher Schwarz comparing</i></span><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i><span style="font-style: normal;"> Throughout the day I tried to fulfill my goal of making a mess. I tried all of the LN saws there and some of the planes. I pondered my purchase, aided by <a href="http://alexandrageske.com/home.html">Alexandra Geske</a> from Lie-Nielsen. "Alex" has also worked with Marc Adams and is an up-and-coming furniture designer in her own right. She was helpful and very pleasant to talk to.</span></i></span><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Alexandra Geske with Lie-Nielsen</i></span><br />
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</div> In the end I came home with a calendar, the George Wilson DVD and the LN crosscut carcass (Sorry Andrew, I just couldn't wait 14 months. Someday though). I'm not sure how well received the event was as a whole but I do hope it returns next year. I certainly enjoyed it!<br />
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<b><i>-RM</i></b>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-13030560528534564102009-10-16T19:01:00.006-04:002009-10-18T16:57:01.211-04:00Sometimes it's all about memories<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_MAvbZ8aiuQmLIp58zdGwrLWyacImj2NHpF0utIKdIAl_x8BvboFdIdLk_lXPtbkK8BdpfBWGwq6UA-lkKyfzmytUk5xNTMPB8oBNqe5Mnklyz583v3QoPlZWYLbaCbcZKgm8l-ZS80ld/s1600-h/Chris+in+the+shop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYlOgoHIgbueJqn6uuPC9H-JFFh_rY2Y7oMAAvgmsxYAEna_Q_NuQEb4mYZOt8K442EnBIR4lP7wq7JZbgiwxTrXu-X1g0bockZ-lb2xAOMJ3BNm2zLMIvCnrOu6t1JHhOCv1l1vjnCPPn/s1600-h/Chris+in+the+shop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYlOgoHIgbueJqn6uuPC9H-JFFh_rY2Y7oMAAvgmsxYAEna_Q_NuQEb4mYZOt8K442EnBIR4lP7wq7JZbgiwxTrXu-X1g0bockZ-lb2xAOMJ3BNm2zLMIvCnrOu6t1JHhOCv1l1vjnCPPn/s400/Chris+in+the+shop.jpg" /></a><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Christopher enjoying the hand drill</i></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: 'Lucida Grande'; font-size: small;"><span style="font-size: 11px;"><span style="font-family: Times;"><span style="font-size: medium;"> </span><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Chris and his dad in the Cottage Workshop</i></span></span></span></span><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr8MVM-TfC8QEelPirbrjdCRrLCr16aQyzHBkmURhcEKHvzhh7518fg-2cQ5rk5EsD3xGSiRgp0D2Fs0WrlRyBHkbafLXkrw8MUj_BRNe4vvkhRyb_4VlTd4OdfRHRdUeACzl1XlcVMi_a/s1600-h/Bobby+and+Chris+in+the+shop.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr8MVM-TfC8QEelPirbrjdCRrLCr16aQyzHBkmURhcEKHvzhh7518fg-2cQ5rk5EsD3xGSiRgp0D2Fs0WrlRyBHkbafLXkrw8MUj_BRNe4vvkhRyb_4VlTd4OdfRHRdUeACzl1XlcVMi_a/s400/Bobby+and+Chris+in+the+shop.jpg" /></a><span style="font-size: large;"> </span>My Godson's 12th birthday is this weekend. Christopher, like most young boys I'm lucky enough to know, is a wonderful kid with a deep imagination and a desire to make and tinker with things. Earlier this year I brought him into the cottage workshop during a birthday party to show him a few of my hand tools. I let him use some hand planes, a spokeshave, a bit & brace and a hand drill. The hand drill was his favorite. It was really nice to have a little one-on-one time with him which I rarely get. His dad came in a bit later and joined in. I took some pictures and excused myself so they could have this experience to themselves and I made sure to keep the other little ones away from the cottage for a while. I had a similar experience with my own son last year during our yearly family cabin retreat. I can tell you that times like those are truly priceless.<br />
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</div><div style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;"><i>Me and Justin woodworking at our Ohio River retreat</i></span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXqj2FwlMl08rXFYp6ZbSCaxBWDf2GsiIcWso_th10bMVDPeACE5ZdYbimuvn32ECN_4UJ7RfzmMw2Abj2zdPibQ91OBPhm_dwNpOwCuKHB1WwpqDowBVsHuxs5UXPtTOd1fYWDdPhy93j/s1600-h/River+woodworking.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXqj2FwlMl08rXFYp6ZbSCaxBWDf2GsiIcWso_th10bMVDPeACE5ZdYbimuvn32ECN_4UJ7RfzmMw2Abj2zdPibQ91OBPhm_dwNpOwCuKHB1WwpqDowBVsHuxs5UXPtTOd1fYWDdPhy93j/s640/River+woodworking.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;"> This year for his birthday present I've decided to make something for him. At first I wanted to get him some tools to start out with. Nothing fancy, just enough to make some sawdust with . Then I thought he'd need a tool box to keep them in. Perhaps something he could also use as a saw bench. Of course the whole thing would have to be sturdy, built to last and look nice. So here's what I came up with...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC3YRjJztF6O_fTE7unbdEaXlhWS0YLDLyyFoK4ExWoJp5AfFg-BSShM8072jbKmd80Esiy82CD4IdQLl3n9wIypCNLq3ujlPo3y7xdMnFGoppVVvNNQzSHdK8ewoh8GSA8dUBOMSEmTLb/s1600-h/Tool+bench+for+Chris+-+17.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC3YRjJztF6O_fTE7unbdEaXlhWS0YLDLyyFoK4ExWoJp5AfFg-BSShM8072jbKmd80Esiy82CD4IdQLl3n9wIypCNLq3ujlPo3y7xdMnFGoppVVvNNQzSHdK8ewoh8GSA8dUBOMSEmTLb/s400/Tool+bench+for+Chris+-+17.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> I used southern yellow pine for the bench. By using dovetails for the joinery there's no worry about strength. I designed the top with a slit so he could saw into it with the boards supported on either side. Now that I think about it adding some holes may have been useful for pegs or bench dogs. I can add that in later. I used some oak ply for the tray with and some cherry for the edging and attached it to the bench with pocket screws. I finished the whole thing with boiled linseed oil which I think makes the pine look fantastic.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> I went to Harbor Freight and found some basic tools for the tool tray. As much as I wanted to include<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">a hand plane or a spoke shave I decided against any razor sharp instruments. I did find a decent miter saw which cut a bit slow but left a respectable finish and was easy to start. I also got a couple hand screws, corner clamp, a small 8oz. hammer and some drill bits for the old hand drill he was so fond of.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> I think it's great to teach woodworking to others and to make something nice in the process. But sometimes making great memories is what it's all about.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>As always, you can see the rest of the construction pictures on my <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/magbanua/sets/72157622468726265/">flickr page</a>.</i><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i><b>-RM</b></i><br />
</div>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-54941268902347554962009-10-07T16:36:00.000-04:002009-10-07T16:36:38.945-04:00Walnut Dresser: Lumber Picking<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFIwD-72btJ1ikCJ7Yk_Oc-3hE0ac5-M4-9Kb2f8giA6kbQCTg_uvJg0NX3CF2Whkm5cZpjUWwbOh8yz4o5kPY8qhIdxvnql2GpiPtaCrXq0l0IXPO3cowULrBZmscKx8vgxCplY5z9baX/s1600-h/Last+Import+-+14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFIwD-72btJ1ikCJ7Yk_Oc-3hE0ac5-M4-9Kb2f8giA6kbQCTg_uvJg0NX3CF2Whkm5cZpjUWwbOh8yz4o5kPY8qhIdxvnql2GpiPtaCrXq0l0IXPO3cowULrBZmscKx8vgxCplY5z9baX/s400/Last+Import+-+14.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Today I spent an hour and a half in the barn going through the walnut I had selected from the wood pile outside. I had purchased this lumber from the Indiana State Fair last year for a pretty decent price. Most of it was left overs that no one wanted. Now I can see why. After running the boards through my planer and removing just enough to see the grain past the coarse marks left by the vintage saw mill at the State Fair I saw a lot of knots, reversing grain, and sap wood. Not to mention a whole lotta checking and other cracks here and there. Now, I'm not very experienced when it comes to woodworking and doubly so when it comes to wood picking. What did I know? Lumber is lumber, right? But when I think about the price I paid it was still a pretty good deal.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Here I am in the barn wood shop. This is where I keep all of my power tools and where I fight the seemingly constant battle between metal and rust. I'm using my Rigid planer which I have been very happy with. It's connected to a Harbor Freight collector which, for the price, I have also been very happy with. I had intended on planing only enough to be able to see the grain but the thickness varied by a quarter inch in some cases. I just put in new knives so all went well.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK8I6wc7rpYmZ4WIN4k7Ck0xKUxIqvuKwTB57wspCn9MXeDteM1bkNEhZoee9PQzmkNjnKtMVHC4o0NzOWE7i6tDnocRzmlDTC7AX9674dRXYChjOctQhJKAdtJOD793W5otOWwKOMO2Ou/s1600-h/Last+Import+-+08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK8I6wc7rpYmZ4WIN4k7Ck0xKUxIqvuKwTB57wspCn9MXeDteM1bkNEhZoee9PQzmkNjnKtMVHC4o0NzOWE7i6tDnocRzmlDTC7AX9674dRXYChjOctQhJKAdtJOD793W5otOWwKOMO2Ou/s400/Last+Import+-+08.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> After planing the boards and looking at both sides I laid them out on the floor. Today I'm looking for what I will use for the carcass sides and top and bottom. A cheaper or "secondary" wood like poplar or pine would normally be used for the bottom, back and interior parts which do not show. I don't have a lot of poplar and what I have cost more than the walnut, so I'll probably use walnut for most everything else except for the drawers.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAm2UxQK6arBfCdovVbdFfUQG22QTiRvLaQacOxK-A5dGCAcr8bPPFittbRzDogdN8RvRUzhAehjK8W9SOyhR9jiJHnefbad7JwbnM7fVCd6s6dNgNXpLxtvEqdkhyk9toZoqhGg_OeIIi/s1600-h/Last+Import+-+12.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAm2UxQK6arBfCdovVbdFfUQG22QTiRvLaQacOxK-A5dGCAcr8bPPFittbRzDogdN8RvRUzhAehjK8W9SOyhR9jiJHnefbad7JwbnM7fVCd6s6dNgNXpLxtvEqdkhyk9toZoqhGg_OeIIi/s400/Last+Import+-+12.jpg" width="267" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> So here's my plan so far. I'm going to pick the boards I want for each side, taking grain patterns and color into consideration. Then I'll cut the pieces to length just adding a few inches. Since this project will probably move at a snail's pace I'll store the parts in the cottage workshop to dry out a bit more until I can get around to properly flattening each piece, gluing them up, and then get down to the dovetails.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Well the family is home and we're going out to the in-laws for a cookout and Beatles Rock Band!<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>-RM</i><br />
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</div>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-55085323287654265072009-10-05T14:40:00.002-04:002009-10-05T15:12:11.012-04:00Hand Drill Restoration<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCx6azRvBIIz11N4h1FLIZ_uJOaSFQ9QWjc_G16YnI2eHPKWgMt7NcqmT12cZ6vG6o_4lDfzyG9hHDGe1M_gxNjmlU3XPTgdFAKq5geGITvrHA1phTZRDjZVO3ufd0F6KjzHaLWt20OHZ8/s1600-h/Hand+drill+restoration+-+15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCx6azRvBIIz11N4h1FLIZ_uJOaSFQ9QWjc_G16YnI2eHPKWgMt7NcqmT12cZ6vG6o_4lDfzyG9hHDGe1M_gxNjmlU3XPTgdFAKq5geGITvrHA1phTZRDjZVO3ufd0F6KjzHaLWt20OHZ8/s400/Hand+drill+restoration+-+15.jpg" /></a><br />
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Here is my "new" Miller's Falls No. 2 hand drill. The major part of its restoration involved making a new handle. I chose to make it out of crab apple wood given to me by my neighbor last year when she had the tree cut down. I really like the figure and color of it and have a bunch more logs drying out to use in the future for small bowls, tool handles, etc. I prepared the blank, turned it to size and shape, and fitted the ferrule. The ferrule is the metal collar on the end of wooden handles. It keeps the wood from splitting apart when its fitted onto the tool as well as when the tool is used.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibSH1ORrrHkWO2F6fak9ia3VSlhBuGW3B1qrjbkRadRFfuRaq21GRSr1rgp6x_ajOQg3oOSkxN7kqLezfHOHFj8hjkId1mxilIdg2UajlG2xnai_gCsp47KdNs1oy4GzR9o_sRiPv6yWCp/s1600-h/Hand+drill+restoration+-+01.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibSH1ORrrHkWO2F6fak9ia3VSlhBuGW3B1qrjbkRadRFfuRaq21GRSr1rgp6x_ajOQg3oOSkxN7kqLezfHOHFj8hjkId1mxilIdg2UajlG2xnai_gCsp47KdNs1oy4GzR9o_sRiPv6yWCp/s320/Hand+drill+restoration+-+01.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> The first thing I did was to cut the crab-apple blank just a bit over-size and find the centers of the ends for when I put it on the lathe. Then, on my drill press, I drilled a hole in one end to accept the post of the hand drill. To drill the hole straight I used the tenoning jig for my table saw. I clamped the jig to my drill press table and it holds the handle blank nice and straight.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Gai1cAeblu5hSLD7ThPVODiAiQgkf5NLFwnHnrsLcGoonpIxxyw6RpZfZvCySDQIA059xhF7JgFCrkMxoGPivjpcplRivA2PfEu8qLIAxBrOQj_sAhrf0enye0mOVdang7bp7QnJPKAt/s1600-h/Hand+drill+restoration+-+02.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Gai1cAeblu5hSLD7ThPVODiAiQgkf5NLFwnHnrsLcGoonpIxxyw6RpZfZvCySDQIA059xhF7JgFCrkMxoGPivjpcplRivA2PfEu8qLIAxBrOQj_sAhrf0enye0mOVdang7bp7QnJPKAt/s320/Hand+drill+restoration+-+02.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> I placed a wood plug into the hole I drilled and centered it on the lathe. After turning the square blank to a cylinder I transferred reference lines to it with a pencil. Holding the original handle next to it allowed me to mark different areas where the size changes or where certain curves start and end.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKPn6KVYXBNEoZrQ_NbqKenvhc0-flwRYlNcF2jcJEB39Au2-EvPn-uhZRp4XoCyHk5In4wAYN-I319KJAwWAO_4DjjAlTQUuRsG2Hn49RJshTjBiNH4lVkIKf-rP2cXS1ovA_8KyO-3TK/s1600-h/Hand+drill+restoration+-+04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKPn6KVYXBNEoZrQ_NbqKenvhc0-flwRYlNcF2jcJEB39Au2-EvPn-uhZRp4XoCyHk5In4wAYN-I319KJAwWAO_4DjjAlTQUuRsG2Hn49RJshTjBiNH4lVkIKf-rP2cXS1ovA_8KyO-3TK/s320/Hand+drill+restoration+-+04.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Using a parting tool and calipers, I remove wood at the point of the reference marks to match the size of the original handle at the same point.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQvpuPORLTwf4pbdCCRLiY2-ZjFyWdbiEw8zzThnMnD1j9Qf71EqrDRJaphlpqttclAKr5uWpgsyqBAImXgyaBQoJb-ede0IEWSI1jLrHdusYuiPYmON6DioueCoW0ZGOVbT9issVTlWd-/s1600-h/Hand+drill+restoration+-+05.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQvpuPORLTwf4pbdCCRLiY2-ZjFyWdbiEw8zzThnMnD1j9Qf71EqrDRJaphlpqttclAKr5uWpgsyqBAImXgyaBQoJb-ede0IEWSI1jLrHdusYuiPYmON6DioueCoW0ZGOVbT9issVTlWd-/s320/Hand+drill+restoration+-+05.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> The rest of the operation is just "connecting the dots" with a few hills and valleys along the way. I held the original up to the lathe often during my progress. It didn't result in an exact copy, but for my humble turning skills it was close enough.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf19UaMClo7VslgejkV_j8eg4KrqbWa4PEcmXJiR_C2lyfdAk3XsIf_92Y-gVoJqllv_q5cIw5TFDyMN-BDJpe-X5jT3hAXxPoxb6TNukgP3Qlfr1U0uLTkGeizekHvzzqtRKkF2PRwP80/s1600-h/Hand+drill+restoration+-+06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf19UaMClo7VslgejkV_j8eg4KrqbWa4PEcmXJiR_C2lyfdAk3XsIf_92Y-gVoJqllv_q5cIw5TFDyMN-BDJpe-X5jT3hAXxPoxb6TNukgP3Qlfr1U0uLTkGeizekHvzzqtRKkF2PRwP80/s320/Hand+drill+restoration+-+06.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> After adding a few more details at the lathe and being careful to keep the ferrule end bigger than needed, I put the blank in my pocket and went over to the Home Depot to look for a suitable ferrule. I see a lot of woodworkers using copper fittings for ferrules so I went to the plumbing department to take a look. I found some copper fittings that would have been good but I was happy to find a brass end cap for about 5 bucks. I thought shiny brass would look much nicer so I got it. And, as a bonus, it was perfect as-is so it wouldn't need to be turned or shaped at all.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> After I got back home I turned the end of the new handle to size making sure it was a snug fit into the brass end cap. By "snug" I mean that I needed to tap it lightly to get it on the handle. I took the brass cap off and put it in a clamp so I could drill a hole in the end. This wasn't as easy as I would have liked. I soon learned that it went much better after I slowed down the drill press (I guess those drill press speed pulleys are actually good for something) and took it really slow. Before that the drill bit would catch, pulling the brass cap from the clamps.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnK_iCqWcDnCIePGNd2KZHVRabzL8FqDhcwp1TakjfxC5K-K84wkDwdiZvZEy84vFI879Vv1sd8Ks2bsAlTX_TWs-GRRp6Pj-6v8XZmQ2o_cYfbI3Uw3TucRQgMA_6g6eH3PELKqf7XdI6/s1600-h/Hand+drill+restoration+-+08.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnK_iCqWcDnCIePGNd2KZHVRabzL8FqDhcwp1TakjfxC5K-K84wkDwdiZvZEy84vFI879Vv1sd8Ks2bsAlTX_TWs-GRRp6Pj-6v8XZmQ2o_cYfbI3Uw3TucRQgMA_6g6eH3PELKqf7XdI6/s320/Hand+drill+restoration+-+08.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> The new handle was slathered in boiled linseed oil which does absolute wonders to the crab-apple wood. I assembled everything together and lubed it up. Very nice. This will definitely get some use in the shop, helping to keep the Rigid charged for the big stuff.<br />
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</div><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpV5CY1GsQuCCsOHemGXPrHBqduNfoaNZy_aXL6ZaYKKIY_JKCX42RmButKpIku76ZAFyl__XwNicKSABrIK34sEui9-j48SNL39P-AiI4TPrslPHUcIbY3sNIHeU7cst6wry_mqwn_ei4/s1600-h/Hand+drill+restoration+-+11.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpV5CY1GsQuCCsOHemGXPrHBqduNfoaNZy_aXL6ZaYKKIY_JKCX42RmButKpIku76ZAFyl__XwNicKSABrIK34sEui9-j48SNL39P-AiI4TPrslPHUcIbY3sNIHeU7cst6wry_mqwn_ei4/s400/Hand+drill+restoration+-+11.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> As with all projects there are things I would do differently the next time. If I were to restore another hand drill I would probably avoid using a sandblaster to remove the old paint and rust. While this drill does work well I can feel some aluminum oxide (sand from the blaster) inside the moving parts. If I do use a sandblaster again I'll be sure to mask and seal all of the moving parts more effectively. Flushing it with WD40 has removed a lot of it but the rest may take a while. It may never come out at all. I could take the gears apart and clean it out but I think I may have to grind or drill out the pins holding them in. In any case, it ain't gonna happen today or even this month. If anyone has any comments or suggestions about the sand in the gears or any other parts of this project let me know. <br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Well, I suppose the lawn ain't gonna mow itself. Until next time...<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><i>-RM</i><br />
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</div>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-14690143157405710822009-10-02T10:11:00.000-04:002009-10-02T10:11:54.976-04:00Goings-on... I have a few things I've been working on in the past week that I'd like to share with you.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxYOxNuN5tp0RX0jhodM0FunV7lWrV1XAxsCp5-DY-zuo1-hm23mPk8bTNuIyb2gUFWjrtcrxvwg9mt_n1_N7gF6oDWw-uFosI9VjVKuyQcF6pFub6OPvZCXJ0mEa2mj9vgPORk97a9fKH/s1600-h/IMG_7840.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxYOxNuN5tp0RX0jhodM0FunV7lWrV1XAxsCp5-DY-zuo1-hm23mPk8bTNuIyb2gUFWjrtcrxvwg9mt_n1_N7gF6oDWw-uFosI9VjVKuyQcF6pFub6OPvZCXJ0mEa2mj9vgPORk97a9fKH/s320/IMG_7840.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Ever since I saw pictures <a href="http://www.wktools.com/">Wiktor Kuc's</a> restored hand drills I've been wanting to restore one of my own. I've found quite a few in local antique malls but they've generally been in very poor working shape. I found a small Japanese-made hand drill last year that I tuned up a bit and it worked surprisingly well but for small holes. Then, about three months ago, I found this Miller's Falls no. 2 that was actually in decent working shape but was in need of a new handle and paint job.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> After removing the handles (quite an ordeal) and the chuck I took the old paint off with a small sand blaster. I masked-off the gears and filled the lubrication holes with bits of paper. Then I sprayed on a few coats of primer. It sat in my car for a month or so until I recently got the gumption to spray on the gloss red and black. Now I just need to turn another handle on the lathe and find a suitable ferrule. I'm thinking about using either walnut or crab-apple for the handle. For the ferrule, I'm thinking about using a brass nut which I would turn on the lathe. This restoration would probably turn a collector's stomach, but I'm not a tool collector. I'm a tool user. And I likes me some purty tools!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8GdyRZOaMRDwkC-hyxpa2f8hKxOESjIMecfBhBbbg4Gl_la63RzQxnJOemjAPvemM05XjRsO26kiR3N2zSHoQu_UZVN2PUibyiDyMIGhwuud3hb-UofGMdcJuDOIg_0ZsOIL02Fmu4Imp/s1600-h/IMG_7842.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8GdyRZOaMRDwkC-hyxpa2f8hKxOESjIMecfBhBbbg4Gl_la63RzQxnJOemjAPvemM05XjRsO26kiR3N2zSHoQu_UZVN2PUibyiDyMIGhwuud3hb-UofGMdcJuDOIg_0ZsOIL02Fmu4Imp/s400/IMG_7842.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> I finally got around to rearranging my hand saws a bit to accommodate my new dovetail saw. I really want to make a proper saw till like <a href="http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=1181">this one</a> by Dave Anderson. I'm not sure if I want one with doors or not.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJXxd6kiACm1olah8A9OzfnrI13yP3eaOq48coyy2qA2anhRExogCiChuLoi1QgEMIogJhyphenhyphenDjphH9nrUq5pLBavbsGMwZGTC-KSPt1QI2cfeW7h6XKew-xPwWaHAKiVlHvFVPMn2AcMJjC/s1600-h/IMG_7843.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJXxd6kiACm1olah8A9OzfnrI13yP3eaOq48coyy2qA2anhRExogCiChuLoi1QgEMIogJhyphenhyphenDjphH9nrUq5pLBavbsGMwZGTC-KSPt1QI2cfeW7h6XKew-xPwWaHAKiVlHvFVPMn2AcMJjC/s400/IMG_7843.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> The next big project for me is a six drawer dresser for Ryan. I've been working out the measurements in SketchUp and have been researching my joinery options. I went out yesterday and got to sift through my walnut that has been drying for over a year now. This is the first time I've dried my own lumber, so I'm not sure how this will go. I found more than enough boards for the dresser and laid them in the barn. Today I may run them through the planer on each face to expose the grain pattern so I can determine what boards I will use for each part of the dresser. There's a lot of advice out there for using grain pattern in designing furniture but I've never really gotten to that point. Part of the reason is that, until now, I haven't had my own lumber pile to sift through and ponder over. I did use a hand plane to check a few boards out of curiosity.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Before I mill any parts I'll probably cut some boards to rough length and <a href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Shop+Projects+Part+1.aspx">stack and sticker</a> them flat in the cottage to dry out a bit more to discourage additional warping. I don't have a moisture meter so I'll just hope they're dry enough. I do have a dehumidifier that I may put in the cottage to help out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFJ4aqOEpbuiw_PC445pCN4G32Zdsz_uvEpZtrQRJw4PYisTR4-8ShcduF5sPLguPEiajrLGrv26Va6tjC3s4jBpIxCm2GGgxKeB2ul4iTRkQxSRsYraxkLztW9NjF1vE0RMUF0gnLrB0W/s1600-h/IMG_7850.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFJ4aqOEpbuiw_PC445pCN4G32Zdsz_uvEpZtrQRJw4PYisTR4-8ShcduF5sPLguPEiajrLGrv26Va6tjC3s4jBpIxCm2GGgxKeB2ul4iTRkQxSRsYraxkLztW9NjF1vE0RMUF0gnLrB0W/s400/IMG_7850.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> The dresser project will be quite a challenge for me for a few reasons. This is going to be my first significant piece that I will have taken from rough cut lumber. It is also going to be made entirely from solid wood. Joinery is much different when solid wood is used when compared to using plywood. Speaking of joinery, while all of the dimensioning will be done with power tools I intend on using hand tools for much of the joints and final surfacing. So far I'm estimating I'll be cutting about fifty through dovetails, fifty half-blind dovetails, sixteen sliding dovetails, four bridle joints and twenty-four mortise and tenons. On second thought, I'll probably use my mortiser and tenoning jig for the M&T's. I do have to get this done someday, ya' know. The toughest part of all of this may be applying the finish. Definitely not my area. I gotta get it built first so I'll worry about it after that happens.<br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> I'm planning on updating you as I progress. This could be a very educational journey for us if you are interested in joining me. Feel free to leave any comments or advice. I could definitely use good advice and words of encouragement.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Another "Thank You" to Kari Hultman, a.k.a. <a href="http://villagecarpenter.blogspot.com/">"The Village Carpenter"</a> for these nice gifts I received on my front porch yesterday. I won them in her last reader contest. I got a copy of Roy Underhill's new book <i>Working Wood with Wegde and Edge </i>which has been a great read so far. "St. Roy" has a lot of valuable experience and rare wisdom to share. This is obvious in just the first couple pages. Also delivered was <a href="http://villagecarpenter.blogspot.com/2007/12/scratch.html">scratch stock and a housing</a> hand-made by Kari herself. There's a good possibility of using this somewhere on the dresser project.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs-2qeoTMZsmo9byQk3mUplEOUyxrNu5bDcia0gfuHKF20m9xxzZZ7sCCIAYo2zn8QXvRlfQdGvsI1xr4xpLbIZbP49pI52JGsWNDIjle4xlkB6-qvnqazjeGx2yRBaOCbazaUCY4H_wnW/s1600-h/IMG_7865.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs-2qeoTMZsmo9byQk3mUplEOUyxrNu5bDcia0gfuHKF20m9xxzZZ7sCCIAYo2zn8QXvRlfQdGvsI1xr4xpLbIZbP49pI52JGsWNDIjle4xlkB6-qvnqazjeGx2yRBaOCbazaUCY4H_wnW/s320/IMG_7865.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> Well, them are the irons in my fire, along with preparations for a fire safety demonstration for 200 Cub Scouts in a week and another small sign job. And sign jobs = more tools! <br />
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</div>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-42665689546650070082009-09-25T11:45:00.000-04:002009-09-25T11:52:59.047-04:00Cool stuff on the way...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl8hQzK22R9ONpIoHcW8P8r23PE95DBUQNIHOom2F6dhc43i7FjRCoELtjaNaY5Bmi5DDUTCCVtMJqIA43MNQpZIQkbZu83abhC3tMOya4dQzFw9uaP4K_-8oiDwr2JVWUbuN2EMa5c8Hj/s1600-h/Prizes.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjl8hQzK22R9ONpIoHcW8P8r23PE95DBUQNIHOom2F6dhc43i7FjRCoELtjaNaY5Bmi5DDUTCCVtMJqIA43MNQpZIQkbZu83abhC3tMOya4dQzFw9uaP4K_-8oiDwr2JVWUbuN2EMa5c8Hj/s320/Prizes.jpeg" /></a><br />
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</div><div style="text-align: left;"> What a wonderful day it is! I know it's raining but I'm a winner. You see, Kari Hultman aka <a href="http://villagecarpenter.blogspot.com/">The Village Carpenter</a> had a prize giveaway contest today. On the line was a copy of <a href="http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/">Roy Underhill</a>'s new book and a woodworking tool called a scratch stock & housing handmade by Kari herself. The challenge was to be the first to correctly answer five excruciatingly difficult questions. And I was that person. Google skills are good to have. She claims to have a much more difficult set of questions next time which, for me, would involve Dr. 90210 trivia and questions about home mortgages.<br />
</div>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-2833285025237122862009-09-25T11:15:00.000-04:002009-09-25T11:53:33.522-04:00Look Ma! I'm on TV!<object height="344" width="425"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/RzMOecDYAC4&hl=en&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/RzMOecDYAC4&hl=en&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object><br />
<div style="text-align: center;"> It's not every day you get to see yourself on TV. I posted it on YouTube so the boys could see their own daddy on on the news. It was a fun day watching and poking fun at ourselves on TV at the firehouse.<br />
</div>The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-41026555252980505952009-09-25T10:57:00.000-04:002009-09-25T10:58:56.476-04:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.lie-nielsen.com/images/logoshte.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://www.lie-nielsen.com/images/logoshte.gif" width="152" /></a><br />
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</div> For those interested, <a href="http://www.lie-nielsen.com/?pg=1">LIE-NIELSEN Toolworks</a> will be coming to Indy October 16th and 17th. Chris Schwarz will be along to perform demos as well as Alex, the helpful sales associate, from Woodcraft Indy. The location of the event is the<a href="http://www.herron.iupui.edu/"> John Herron School of Art</a>. It looks like I'm off work on the 17th so, hopefully, I'll see you there!The Cottage Workshophttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03116267054128959404noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3302523922559096142.post-62316344073150796372009-09-23T14:54:00.000-04:002009-09-24T19:06:45.715-04:00Storage Chest Completed<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE6pzdXTk5aOmqrBAaQNHtcDozH1ttIfGyLLZdRN65TuCdj4YB1eHv8_7H8ie7xh1U-_yQy-yEuo5Lw2C8jkusXYkUGVxCNR7woxfXmEOcChCduv-tFoBoUMnQZJc4rvROLZlYw1YfPq0B/s1600-h/Storge+Chest+Finished+-+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE6pzdXTk5aOmqrBAaQNHtcDozH1ttIfGyLLZdRN65TuCdj4YB1eHv8_7H8ie7xh1U-_yQy-yEuo5Lw2C8jkusXYkUGVxCNR7woxfXmEOcChCduv-tFoBoUMnQZJc4rvROLZlYw1YfPq0B/s400/Storge+Chest+Finished+-+2.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div> I finally finished the outdoor storage chest from<a href="http://richardmagbanua.blogspot.com/2009/08/flattening-by-hand.html"> a few posts ago</a>. I went back and forth on the finish to use. I was intending to use this for storing play balls outside so I thought about just painting the thing and being done with it. But after planing and smoothing the top and seeing the nice redwood grain I decided to use some outdoor stain/varnish I had left over from the <a href="http://richardmagbanua.blogspot.com/2009/08/father-day-grill-cart.html">grill cart project</a>. Besides, I can always prime it and paint it later but not so easily the other way around. I think it looks nice although I did leave a few drip spots. Finishing is definitely an area I need to learn more about and get more practice with. Something that's funny to me about finishing outdoor projects like this is that it looks almost too nice to be left outside, but not quite as nice as I'd like to keep in the living room. I'm sure after some scratches, a hail storm, and after the puppy starts gnawing on it, it will look right at home with all the other weathered outdoor furniture.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij4Pwi1QR2kpc7X8-vJ2k_9-zJaPsiCorvrSywdV90Ajp1D3moFmnA1yw09EQ9oC3OJLP52IAZrFLegRgEdJghd4jmqxC1NJGTRmM1fp_CNfm4-fFbMOl-3z1cfxr-G7P7WNjaQt0qe3bo/s1600-h/Storge+Chest+Finished+-+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij4Pwi1QR2kpc7X8-vJ2k_9-zJaPsiCorvrSywdV90Ajp1D3moFmnA1yw09EQ9oC3OJLP52IAZrFLegRgEdJghd4jmqxC1NJGTRmM1fp_CNfm4-fFbMOl-3z1cfxr-G7P7WNjaQt0qe3bo/s320/Storge+Chest+Finished+-+5.jpg" /></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ZKF1SAKOaQNqcvSlnULS3DoMwj2hg3M1Y9xmI2RKiEaN6eNWhl7xkb_Avy_VWc3ELfRH19-aGU1ivzA_ROrhjy0zWqSMENk-wYb5PLChyZxyDFgwSW9dez3_hXeIgM9qYR9dN2ss_hL8/s1600-h/Storge+Chest+Finished+-+6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ZKF1SAKOaQNqcvSlnULS3DoMwj2hg3M1Y9xmI2RKiEaN6eNWhl7xkb_Avy_VWc3ELfRH19-aGU1ivzA_ROrhjy0zWqSMENk-wYb5PLChyZxyDFgwSW9dez3_hXeIgM9qYR9dN2ss_hL8/s400/Storge+Chest+Finished+-+6.jpg" /></a><br />
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</div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Now, on to the next project....<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"> The lumber is dry, the tools have been acquired, the heat of summer is gone. The time has come to make some <i>real</i> furniture. This photo is borrowed from <a href="http://www.srww.com/index.htm">Swamp Road Woodworks</a>. It's a very impressive site by woodworker Joe Zeh. I really like Shaker furniture and this piece comes very close to what I've been looking for. I'm planning on using walnut that has been drying for a little more than one year by my barn. Both of my boys need new drawers so I'll see what I can do by Christmas.<br />
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